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Henna for Body Art 101: How to Sift and Strain Henna for Smooth, Clog-free Paste

Chunky henna paste easily puts a damper on a good henna session. It stops an artist from getting into their rhythm, and can ruin a pattern with broken lines or unexpected paste eruptions. An artist may try to clip a larger opening at the tip of their cone, sacrificing lovely thin lines and minute details. Smooth, clog-free paste makes all the difference. To avoid henna mishaps, it is best to be proactive by sifting henna powder and/or straining paste before it goes into your cones. Luckily, both are quite easy and quick to do, if only a little bit messy.

Why does henna need to be sifted or strained?

Henna powder varies greatly in quality. Depending on the manufacturer, it will be ground and sifted to one degree or another. Henna that is sold for hair sometimes contains larger plant particles. Low quality henna may also contain sand and other debris. Cheap henna powder may seem like a good way to save money, but it will cause more headaches in the long run. After sifting and straining, you’ll find that you have lost a good fraction of your product.

It is best to start with a high-quality body art henna powder which has been finely ground and already sifted to a high degree. You can choose to sift it again if you wish, but will find that there is very little that is left behind, in comparison to a lower quality powder. High quality powder will not contain sand, stems, and leaves. Sifting may be helpful to prevent clumps when mixing, but clumps tend to smooth out after dye-release, anyways.

I rarely ever sift my henna, but I do strain the paste after it has been mixed and dye-released. Straining henna paste alters its consistency by breaking apart and/or removing larger plant particulates. This leaves the paste with a smoother consistency. Straining is also helpful if you used fresh-squeezed juice, and some pulp made its way into the paste. If you prefer to use very thin lines and intricate details in your henna patterns, you will need paste that can squeeze through a very fine tip without interruption.

If you find yourself in possession of chunky powder, or if you simply want to be 100% positive that your paste will flow smoothly, sifting and/or straining can make a huge difference.

How To Sift Dry Henna Powder

To sift dry henna powder, you’ll need a tall, plastic container with a lid, a pair of nylon stockings, and a handful of coins (or other small, heavy objects).

Layer one stocking inside of the other.

Put the toe in the container and stretch the stockings over the opening, like lining a trash can.

Put your henna powder in the stockings, and drop your coins in.

Make sure your lid fits tightly. If not, henna powder will get all over the place.

Shake your sifter while holding the lid on firmly. The finely sifted powder will end up in the container, and the remaining chunks and debris will stay in the stockings.

To see a step-by-step with images, click here.

How To Strain Henna Paste

You can also use a nylon stocking to strain your henna paste once it is made. A second option is to use a fine mesh strainer or sieve. I prefer the latter, as using a stocking can be difficult, depending on the elasticity and thickness of a stocking. If a stocking is made with a lot of spandex, you will be pulling forever. If it is a thicker weave, too much of the plant matter will remain inside the stocking, and the resulting paste will be too thin. Both methods will work well, and are a matter of personal preference.

How to strain henna paste with a stocking, directly into a carrot bag.

Make sure to wear gloves while doing this, as it will be messy.

Use a sheer, nylon stocking (but not “tights”! Tights are too thick). Dollar stores often sell multi-packs for cheap. If you are not using a knee-high or thigh-high, simply cut one of the legs off of a pair. You will also need a cup, carrot bag/plastic icing bag, and a rubber band, if you prefer.

Put the toe of your stocking into the cup, and stretch the remainder of the stocking over the edge of the cup, like lining a trash bag.

Scoop your henna paste into the toe of the stocking.

Pull the stocking off the cup, and transfer it into the carrot bag, so the henna is inside the bag, and the remainder of the stocking hangs outside.

Hold the opening of the carrot bag tight with one hand (use a rubber band if it helps) and pull hard on the stocking with your other hand, until the paste is extruded through the stocking and into the carrot bag.

The strained henna will be left in the carrot bag. From here, you can go straight to filling cones.

To see a step-by-step with images, click here.

How to strain henna paste with a fine mesh strainer or sieve

I personally find this method to be easier on the hands, less messy, and just as effective. It does take a little longer, especially if you are straining a lot of paste. Because the strained henna goes into a bowl rather than into a carrot bag, you can still adjust the consistency as needed after it is strained. I like to add my sugars and essential oils after straining, rather than before, so I can control the consistency better.

You will need a sieve or fine-mesh strainer, a bowl, and a spoon or silicone spatula.

Place the strainer over the bowl, and spoon your dye-released henna paste into the strainer.

Press and stir until the paste moves through the strainer and into the bowl.

I prefer to do a few spoonfuls at a time, adding more into the strainer as it empties.

The chunky bits will remain in the strainer. If they begin to block the paste’s passage, just rinse the strainer and continue until all of your paste has been strained.

Once you have a bowl full of silky smooth paste, you can test it for consistency. If you find it is too thin, add a little more henna powder. Strain again, if desired. If it is too thick, add a few teaspoons of liquid until it is at the right consistency.

From here, you can bag, cone, or freeze as you’d like.

Here you can see the larger debris left in the strainer after it has been rinsed. There is relatively little, as the paste was made with high-quality henna powder, but these few small pieces would have caused the occasional clog.

If you have additional questions about sifting or straining henna paste for body art, feel free to leave a comment, and/or visit www.hennapage.com.

Henna for Body Art 101: How to Achieve a Dark, Long-Lasting Stain

Henna for body art is a beautiful and safe way to adorn the skin. One of the qualities that makes henna so well-loved is its ability to stain the skin for as long as two or three weeks. This makes henna one of the few cosmetics that does not need to be reapplied daily. Henna can last through long celebrations, vacations, and special events.

Elaborate designs, such as those applied for weddings, take several hours to apply. Naturally, one would like to achieve a dark stain, and to have the design stay on the skin for as long as possible. It can be quite disappointing or frustrating to see a beautiful pattern turn out too light, and then fade in a couple of days. Ensuring a dark, long-lasting stain begins with the placement of the design, and ends with proper aftercare. Keep reading to learn how to get the best results out of your henna.

Location Matters

Henna works best on areas of the body where there are several layers of stratum corneum, and where skin is thicker and rougher, such as on the hands and feet. The dye molecule can penetrate and bind more fully to these layers. The stain will fade slowly, as the skin is exfoliated away naturally over time.

Areas of the body where the skin is thinner and smoother will not work as well with henna. Upper arms and legs, and the torso will see lighter stains that will fade faster. These stains will never reach the deep, espresso-brown shade one might achieve on fingertips, no matter what you do. The skin simply isn’t thick enough.

Start with Dry, Clean Skin with No Oils

The skin is naturally hydrophobic, and does well to prevent many substances from entering across its barrier. The skin naturally produced sebum to protect and moisturize the skin. Oils from sebum, or from moisturizing products will prevent henna from successfully binding to the keratin in the skin.

The day that you plan to apply henna, avoid applying lotion or other moisturizing products where you plan to have henna. Immediately before application, thoroughly wash the area with soap and water, or wipe with rubbing alcohol to create a clean, oil-free surface.

Use Quality Henna Paste with Terps

A good henna stain cannot happen without good henna. Mass-produced pre-made pastes contain low quality henna (or none at all), cheap solvents in place of essential oil based terps, and an assortment of concentrated food dyes. If you’ve ever gotten food coloring on your skin, you’ll see that it stains immediately, but washes away within a couple of days. This is because such dyes do not bind to keratin on a molecular level the way lawsone does.

Pre-made pastes may also contain PPD, which can create a dark, long-lasting stain, but at great cost. (To learn more about PPD reactions, click here)

Insist on using only hand made natural henna paste. Quality paste made from high dye-content henna and aromatherapy grade essential oils is not only safer, but more effective. However, not all essential oils are effective for darkening henna. “Terps” are essential oils nicknamed for their monoterpene alcohol content. The monoterpene alcohols are what allow for stronger dye release and a darker result on the skin. To learn more about Terps, click here.

Leave The Paste On As Long As Possible

With henna, patience makes all the difference. Manufacturers of mass-produced henna paste have tried to create a faster, darker product to serve customers who want immediate results. Same goes for commercial hair dyes which promise coverage in 30 minutes. In the long run, “fast and dark” often translates into “cheap,” “unsafe,” and “quick to fade.”

If you want a beautiful, dark henna stain, go into it with the awareness that you may be spending the better part of a day with limited use of your hands, or other parts of your body. Henna has been used on brides and on women about to give birth, with the benefit of forcing the woman to sit or lie still for several hours. Elaborate, intricate henna designs were a sign of social status, because they indicated that the people who wore them could afford to not work for several hours as the paste was applied and left on.

If you are unable to afford a day of idleness, plan to have your henna done in the evening. Wrap the design, and leave it on overnight. Henna needs to be left on the skin at least three or four hours for a good result, but some choose to leave it on as long as twelve hours or more.

The toes and outline of this beautiful slipper design are a dark, oxidized stain, while the light orange fill is from henna paste that was applied and then removed quickly.

Seal It

Henna doesn’t always like to stay on the skin. Sometimes, henna will dry and flake off within a couple of hours despite your best efforts not to mess with it. This will depend on the level of humidity in your area, and the henna paste formulation. If the paste is drying and flaking off too quickly, this means it will have less time to transfer dye onto the skin. There are a number of methods for sealing henna so it stays moist and in contact with the skin for as long as possible.

Many artists use some sort of lemon-and-sugar mixture which they apply over the design once the paste is dry enough to touch. This method seems to work fairly well in keeping the design sticky and flexible. However, it may not be the best for summer days, as citrus can cause photo-sensitivity, and the mixture may be quite appealing to bees and other little winged friends.

Strong setting hair spray is also a good trick. Get the kind that is meant to keep your hair locked in shape through hurricanes. Spritz it over the design and allow it to dry. Sprinkle glitter over top of it if you wish.

Other options involve applying medical tape over the design, or wrapping it with a soft paper or cotton. Wrapping a design is especially handy if you need to leave it on overnight without worrying about waking up to a bed full of henna crumbs. The following section will discuss wrapping.

Heat and Moisture Help

One reason why wrapping is effective is because it keeps the design moist and warm while it is on the skin. Henna’s dye will continue to migrate into the stratum corneum as long as the paste stays mildly damp. A warm environment causes the skin to be more receptive to the dye. Be aware that the paste should stay dry enough that it is not at risk of smearing or bleeding.

Carefully apply a good layer of toilet paper or pulled-apart cotton balls directly over the design, then wrap the whole thing with a layer of plastic, and keep it in place with tape. If the design is on the torso, lay the paper or cotton flat over the design, cover with plastic, and seal the edges down with tape. Wearing a tight-fitting shirt can help to keep the covering flat over a belly, back, or chest design.

To learn more about how to wrap a henna design, click here.

Medical tape works well for smaller designs. Simply apply the tape directly over the design until it is completely covered.

If you are not able to leave the paste on for several hours, heat can help speed up the staining process. Put a heating pad on the area, or use a hair dryer on the low setting

Once the paste is removed, heat will also help to facilitate oxidation. When henna is used on fabric, ironing the stain causes it to go dark very quickly. Hair that is dyed with henna will become darker if the person uses heated styling tools. Obviously, it would not be a good idea to press an iron to one’s skin, but exposing the skin to warm steam, a heating pad, or a nice summer day will help the stain darken.

Be Patient; The Stain Takes 24-48 Hours to Darken Fully

After the paste is removed, the henna stain continues to darken by way of oxidation. It won’t achieve its darkest state until a day or two later. The initial stain may be light orange, or even a deep red. Over time, the stain oxidizes to burgundy and coffee brown shades and darker, depending on the area of the body. Do not be disappointed if the stain you see at first is too light. In fact, you should be more concerned if a henna stain is fast and dark, as that is a strong indicator of harmful additives.

If you are getting henna for a special event, it is best to have it done a couple of days beforehand, or at least the night before. Otherwise, the stain may still be too light during the event.

As explained above, heat can expedite the oxidation process. Take care to only use gentle heat for short periods of time, to prevent skin damage.

A henna stain just after paste removal, and the same stain after oxidation.

Avoid Water, Chlorine, Alcohol, and Scrubbing

It is often recommended that a person avoids having their hennaed skin make contact with water for 24 hours after the paste is removed. This prevents the dye from loosening from the skin while it is still in the process of binding. Use a wooden tongue depressor, or the blunt side of a butter knife to scrape away the paste rather than rinsing with water.

When a henna design fades, it is due to the outer layers of the skin naturally shedding. Therefore, avoid over-washing the skin and using products that contain a high level of alcohol, like hand sanitizer. Try not to scrub or use exfoliating products in that area. Spending a lot of time in a pool or hot tub may also cause a design to fade more quickly.

If you ever end up with a henna design that you don’t like, or must fade as quickly as possible for whatever reason, simply do the opposite: go swimming, wash your skin frequently, scrub, and cover yourself in hand sanitizer.

Henna actually helps the exfoliation of rough, calloused skin. If you have feet that are in need of some love, cover your soles and toes in a solid slipper of henna. You will see the thickest skin acquire a dark, nearly-black stain. Every few days, soak your feet in warm water and scrub with a pumice stone. You’ll see those dark patches slough off, little by little, until your skin is much smoother.

Bonus: Henna is antifungal. Learn more about henna’s beneficial properties, and how to use henna on the feet here.

Keep Skin Moisturized

Again, the best way to maintain a long henna stain on the skin is to slow down the natural exfoliation process. Especially if you tend to have dry, flaky skin, it is a good idea to keep the hennaed area moisturized. Some henna artists provide a kind of after-care balm that is meant to prolong the stain. They are usually a homemade mixture of oils, essential oils, and beeswax. If you don’t have this special balm, no worries; a regular lotion or oil made for the skin should do just fine. Not only does a moisturizer keep the skin from drying and shedding, but provides an additional hydrophobic barrier to keep water out. You may want to reapply throughout the day, especially if the design is on your hands and you are washing your hands frequently.

If you want to treat yourself to some wonderful smelling, all-natural lotions, body butters, and oils, Mehandi has you covered.

These body butters are hand-made in small batches, and they smell delicious.

Reapply If Possible

If you got your henna done on a trip, or hired a professional, it may not be possible to have the design reapplied once it starts fading. If you have a steady hand and access to some good henna paste (for best results and safety, mix it yourself), you may try tracing over the pattern yourself.

If you applied your henna yourself, and are very happy with the design, simply retrace the design once it starts fading to keep it fresh. Henna stains build on each other, causing increasingly darker results. I tend to maintain a henna slipper on my feet during the summer months, and after the second or third application, my soles are nearly black. They stay that way as long as I reapply about once a week.

If you have additional questions about henna after-care, feel free to comment below or visit www.hennapage.com for all things henna!

Henna For Body Art 101: How to Make a Basic Henna Paste

Creating a great henna paste for body art is relatively simple. It requires only a few ingredients, and the right combination of temperature and time. Many people avoid making their own henna paste because they believe that it is too complicated, choosing instead to purchase pre-made paste from other body art suppliers, or worse, the dreaded “chemical cone.” Making homemade BAQ henna paste is much cheaper than buying it from a henna supplier, and definitely much safer than purchasing manufactured henna paste cones. This article will describe how to make a basic henna paste for body art use, and dip into the science behind it.

The Ingredients

Paste recipes will vary depending on the type of henna powder used, the humidity of the environment, and the personal preferences of the artist. Any basic henna paste will likely have the following ingredients, each with their own purpose:

Body art quality (BAQ) henna powder
An acidic liquid (for effective dye-release)
Essential oils (for a dark stain)
Some kind of sugar (for a smooth consistency and better adherence to skin)

BAQ Henna Powder

Not all henna powder is made equal. Cheaper powders can contain a variety of additives, such as dyes, sand, metallic salts, and chemical adulterants. They can be poorly sifted, and contain stale powder that releases little dye. Henna that is sold for hair is sometimes a premixed blend of henna and other plant powders. You need to look for a henna that is finely-sifted, and tested to be 100% pure henna, free of adulterants. The product may be labeled BAQ, but be aware that companies often use that term as a method of advertising, regardless of the henna’s quality.

It is unlikely that you will find a quality henna powder in a brick-and-mortar store. Don’t be fooled by packaging. “Made in India” means very little when it comes to the product’s safety, as does “100% safe” or an ingredients list that only reports henna as the ingredient.

If you are interested in seeing an experiment on pre-made henna pastes that claimed to be safe and pure, read this.

Your safest bet is to order directly from a reputable company dealing in henna body art products, and/or pure bulk henna powder. Check to see if they have lab-test documents on their powders.

BAQ henna powders will differ from one another. Henna is grown in a number of regions, and the crops themselves will vary season by season. Some hennas will create a creamier texture, like smooth mashed potatoes, while others will be stringy and stretchy like melted caramel. Each artist has their preference. The consistency can also be manipulated with the amount of liquid and sugar used.

Acidic Liquid

The henna powder provides the dye molecule responsible for leaving beautiful, deep red stains on the skin. The molecule is called Lawsone. When henna powder is mixed with a liquid, the intermediary molecule, called an aglycone, is released. This is often referred to as dye release.

The aglycones quickly bond with oxygen molecules to form its final state. Once oxidized, the dye is no longer able to attach to the skin. This process is called demise.

The goal is to keep the aglycones available for a longer period of time, allowing as much dye as possible to stain the surface layers of the skin before oxidizing. An acidic liquid provides a low pH, hydrogen-rich environment, which allows for a longer period of time before demise.

Therefore, lemon juice is one of the most popular liquids to mix with henna. Henna pastes which are made with an acidic liquid, like lemon juice, need to rest for a longer dye release time before it is ready to use. Pastes mixed with water release very quickly, but also demise much faster.

Essential Oils

EOs make henna paste smell great, but they have a more important function than that. Certain types of essential oils contain monoterpene alcohols, which act as solvents. Often referred to as terps, these essential oils help create a much darker stain on the skin. Without terps, a henna design may remain a lighter, orange color rather than oxidizing to a deep brown. The dye molecule in henna is hydrophobic, rather than hydrophilic (it is not friends with water). The terp acts as a solvent to release the dye more effectively within the acidic liquid.

Not all essential oils contain monoterpene alcohols. Some essential oils which contain monoterpene alcohols are not safe to use on the skin. Tea Tree, Cajeput, and Ravensara essential oils contain a high amount of monoterpene alcohols, and are safe to use. Lavender, Cardamom, Geranium, Cypress, and Cypress Tips oils are good, as well. Neroli, Pine, Juniper, Thyme, Rosemary, and Marjoram essential oils have lower levels of monoterpene alcohols, but will still darken henna somewhat.

Oils to avoid: Citrus oils are phototoxic. Cinnamon and Clove are irritating to the skin. Camphor is a transdermal intoxicant, and can make a person ill.

The oils you choose to use will be dependent on your preference and needs. Lavender is popular because it is the best for sensitive skin. Whatever your choice, make sure to use high quality, aromatherapy-grade oils. You will need about 10ml of essential oil for every 100g henna.

Learn more about terps here.

Sugar

This last ingredient is not absolutely necessary, but it is helpful. Many henna artists add some type of sugar into their paste. It gives the paste a smooth, silky consistency that is easier to work with. The sugar also helps the paste stick onto the skin and stay moist longer. For a dark, long-lasting stain, the pattern needs to stay on the skin as long as possible.

Regular white sugar works fine enough. Dextrose is great, too. Some henna artists report using molasses, honey, or corn syrup. The amount of sugar needed is dependent on the humidity of your current climate. In dry areas, more sugar may be necessary. In warm, humid areas, a paste with too much sugar will remain very wet, and “melt,” meaning the design on the skin turns to blobs.

Some artists prefer more sugar in their paste, as it allows them to “stretch” the paste and drape long, fine lines. Some prefer their paste to be creamier, akin to the texture of icing. If you are just starting to mix your own henna, it is best to add just a little sugar at a time, testing the paste until you find a consistency that you like. Henna paste can still be effective with no sugar at all.

Learn more about henna and sugar here.

This henna has been mixed with dextrose. The paste is smoother and stretchier.

Temperature and Time

While there is some variation between henna powders, henna normally dye-releases in an acidic mixture within 8-12 hours at room temperature. Some powders may need as long as 24 hours. A warmer environment will speed dye-release, while a cooler environment will slow it. A long dye-release creates a better paste than a fast one. Do not mix henna with hot liquid. This will cause a very fast dye-release, and a very weak stain.

To learn more about dye-release, read this Ancient Sunrise® Blog article. It is about henna for hair, but the science is still the same, no matter where you plan to put your henna.

Putting It All Together

I am not going to provide a “recipe” because, as you can see, there are many variables to take into account, as well as personal preference. One recipe may work well for me, with the crop of henna I use, the humidity of my environment, and my personal preference, but may be completely off for you.

I would prefer to provide a guide for discovering a henna mix that works best for you and your needs. Experiment a little, and take notes. That way, once you have mixed your perfect batch, you will be able to recreate it.

However, you will generally need about equal parts henna powder and liquid (when measured by volume), and a much smaller amount of sugar. Essential oils will be the most scant ingredient in your mix, as they are very strong. Again, 10ml (about 2tsp) terps is plenty for 100g (roughly 1 cup) dry henna powder. EOs with high levels of monoterpene alcohols can be used even more sparingly.

Begin with a small amount of henna powder, perhaps a few tablespoons. You can always make a bigger batch of paste once you’ve perfected your mix. 20 grams of henna powder will still create enough paste to fill several cones, and there’s no point making mistakes on an entire packet of henna powder.

Add lemon juice little by little, stirring until the powder is completely wet, and has the consistency of thick mashed potatoes, and any large lumps are gone. A whisk is handy to use.

Add the essential oils, and stir until fully combined.

Cover the paste with plastic wrap, pushing the plastic down so it is against the paste. Check the temperature of where you plan to leave it, and check the chart above to know how long to leave it. Set an alarm on your phone, or write a reminder to yourself. Mixing the paste in the evening and leaving it overnight is an effective method.

Leave it alone. Poking and stirring every few hours won’t do anything to speed it up. Once you believe the paste is ready, check for dye release. There are a few indicators you can use.

First, the surface of the paste may be several shades darker than the paste underneath. If you mixed in a glass bowl, you can see the layers quite clearly. Or, you can use a spoon to scoop away the top, and compare it to the paste that you reveal underneath.

Second, there may be a deep orange-red liquid that collects around the surface of your paste.

Finally, you can test some of the paste on your skin by applying a drop to the palm of your hand, and leaving it there for a few minutes. When you wipe it away, you should see a bright orange stain. If the stain is very light, leave the paste for another hour, and check again.

You can see that the surface is darker, and there are puddles of a deep red liquid collecting on the surface.

Consistency

Once your paste has dye-released, add liquid and sugar as needed until it is the right consistency. You can use water, or more lemon juice. Add the sugar in a fraction of a teaspoon at a time. Liquid sugars, like molasses, require very little to get the job done. Many artists prefer a paste that “ribbons” off of the spoon. Some may prefer a slightly thicker paste.

Test the paste by coning a small amount, and squeezing a simple design on your skin. You want the paste to come out of the cone in thin lines without using too much pressure. You may want to see how far you can drape a line before it breaks. Try a few swirls and varying the thickness of your lines. Wait for about fifteen minutes.

If your design dries and cracks quickly, or doesn’t drape well enough, add a little more sugar. If the paste was too thick, add a little more liquid. If the paste is too thin or wet, add a little more powder. Keep adjusting and testing until you get the paste to your preference.

“Stringy” paste makes fine lines easier to drape.

Storage

If you want to use your henna paste right away, cone it up and get doodling! If you plan to use your henna paste in the next day or two, you can keep it in the refrigerator. If you are not sure when you will be using it, or would like to keep it for a long time, keep it in the freezer. You can either put your henna into cones before storing it, or defrost and cone when you choose. An easy way to keep frozen henna is to wrap it in plastic, like in the article here.

However you store it, I find it helpful to write a note that includes the date and the ingredients. I use a permanent marker and write it on the plastic bag holding my cones. This way, you can differentiate between batches. For example, I have cones that are citrus-free and contain only lavender oil, for use on those with sensitivities. I wouldn’t want to get my batches confused and accidentally apply my regular mix on someone with a citrus allergy.

If you need help learning how to roll cones, watch this video here.

Learn more about mixing henna at the Henna Page. If you have questions, feel free to comment below.