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Henna on Fingertips, Feet, and Nails: Cosmetic and Practical Applications (Part Two)

This article was originally posted on www.AncientSunrise.blog.

How To Henna Fingertips, Nails, and Feet

Part One of this two-part series explored the use of henna on fingertips, nails, and feet. Henna was used both as a cosmetic and as a way to heal and protect skin, nails, and hair.

To read Part One, click here.

This section will describe how to use henna paste to decorate and strengthen fingertips, nails, and feet.

Note for US Residents:

The color additive “henna” is approved by the FDA solely for the use of “hair dye” (see, 21 CFR 73.2190); it may not be used for dyeing the “eyelashes,” “eyebrows,” nor the “eye area” for cosmetic product applications. Neither is it approved for cosmetic “skin tattoo” purposes. To use a color additive in any cosmetic product application for which it is not listed for regulation renders it “adulterated” and/or “misbranded.” (see section 601(a) and/or 601(e), and/or 602(e) of the FD&C Act)

https://www.fda.gov/ForIndustry/ColorAdditives/ColorAdditivesinSpecificProducts/InCosmetics/ucm110032.htm

Here are the US FDA regulations for the use of henna for the purpose of body art. These regulations have the force of law: https://www.fda.gov/cosmetics/productsingredients/products/ucm108569.htm

If you live outside of the US, this does not apply to you.

Always make sure you are using only 100% Body Art Quality (BAQ) henna whether it is on the hair or skin.

How to Apply Henna to Fingertips

Save this for a time when you don’t need your hands. I do this before bed, and sleep with wrapped fingertips.

Henna on smaller areas of the body is easily done with a rolled mylar cone filled with henna. If you are unfamiliar with how to roll and fill cones, click here to learn.

Set Up

You will need:

A cone of henna for outlining. (Or you can use medical tape. See below.)
A small bowl or shot glass with about 1T henna. (You can just squeeze out the rest of your cone after outlining.)
A small brush
Toilet paper or other soft paper
Tape

Outline

Start with clean hands that do not have lotion or oils on them.

Use the cone to draw an outline. You may need a friend to help if you wish to do both hands.

Alternatively, you can wrap a strip of medical tape around each finger. The result will be a nice, crisp line. You will want to choose a waterproof tape with a straight edge (some have a zig-zag edge).

Fill

Fill in the skin from the line or the edge of the tape, to the tips of your fingers. I prefer to apply in layers, allowing each layer to dry. This prevents having fingers covered in a thick layer of wet paste that will take forever to dry.

Wrap

Wait until the paste is dry enough to touch without lifting any away. A hair dryer can help speed up the process. Wrap tissue or toilet paper around each finger, securing with tape.

If you like, you can pull on a pair of stretchy fabric gloves. The warmth will deepen the stain, and the gloves keep the wraps from slipping off.

Remove

To remove, unwrap your fingertips and gently scrape the paste away with a wooden craft stick or the blunt side of a butter knife. A stiff nail brush helps to remove extra bits. Try to avoid water for the first few hours while the stain settles and oxidizes.

The stain will deepen over 24-48 hours. To expedite the process and darken the result, gently heat or steam your hands.

On the left, the fresh stain is bright orange. On the right, the stain has oxidized to a deep burgundy after 48 hours.

How to Apply Henna to Fingernails and/or Toenails

If you would like to stain only your nails rather than your fingertips the process is similar, and simpler.

You can do this either with a cone or a clean, small brush. A recycled nail polish brush would work nicely. Trim and shape your nails as you prefer.

Using a Cone

Squeeze the cone gently and fill over the nail using back and forth motions. It works well to apply a thinner layer, then apply a second layer as the first dries. As the paste dries, it darkens and flattens. You will be able to see where you would like to add more paste.

Using a Brush

Henna tends to slip over the surface of the nail, so it is helpful to use dabbing motions rather than treating it the way you would nail polish. Let the first layer set, and then go back in to fill any areas that are thin.

http://gph.is/2xTs41a

Finish

You can either choose to wrap your fingertips similarly as described above, or allow the paste to fully dry on the nails. Damp paste will continue to stain the skin, leading to darker results. If you let the paste dry, keep it on for as long as possible (several hours is good) before gently scraping it away.

Again, the result will be brighter at first, and deepen over the next couple of days. You can reapply to deepen the color, and apply as necessary as your nails grow. I find that doing this weekly keeps my nails a deep red hue. My nails grow longer and chip less when I maintain hennaed nails.

Henna will stain the nail permanently, so if you choose to stop applying henna to your nails, a good way to hide half-hennaed nails is to paint them over with polish until the stained portion grows and is clipped away.

Hennaed nails are a deep red. This color fades very little over time.

How to Apply Henna to Feet

You will definitely want to do this on a particularly lazy day, or in the evening before bed. You might want to have a friend to help you. I am a pretty flexible person and have found that hennaing one’s own feet is possible, but requires awkward positions.

Start with clean, scrubbed feet. Henna will help the feet shed excess callus and dry skin, but if you’d like your stain to last for a long time, it is a good idea to scrub off anything that is on the verge of shedding already.

Set-up

Remember that once you have henna on your feet, you are not going anywhere until it is wrapped. You’ll need to have everything on hand before you start, or holler for someone to bring you what you need. (Trust me. I have more than once crawled or butt-scooted over to where I had left my supplies, praying I don’t accidentally touch my feet to anything.)

You will want to cover the area where you’ll be sitting with an old towel. I prefer to sit on the floor with a cushion under me.

You will need:

A cone of henna for outlining.
A small bowl of henna. ½ cup to 1 cup should be plenty, depending on how thick your paste is.
A small flat brush or a large wooden craft stick
Toilet paper or other soft paper
Plastic wrap or plastic grocery bags
Tape. Medical tape is great, but any kind will do fine. It won’t go on the skin.
An old pair of socks

I also like to have a snack and drink close by. Maybe put on music or a movie. Make sure the cats aren’t feeling particularly needy. This will take some time.

Outline

Feet can be hennaed in many styles. Hennaed feet have varied by culture and time period. Some people prefer to apply only to the soles. Some apply to the balls of the feet and the toes. Once you have decided on your henna-feet style, use a cone to draw an outline along the tops and sides of your feet. I prefer a full slipper.

A helpful trick for keeping it symmetrical: Put on a pair of flats and use an aquarellable pencil to trace outlines on your feet along the edge of your shoes.

You can also use medical tape to create a clean outline. Just apply the paste right over the edge of the tape.

Fill

Using the brush or craft stick, apply the henna paste evenly all over your feet. Make sure to apply henna between and under each toe. The paste will want to squish from between your toes while it is wet. Keep reapplying in layers.

Let each layer dry, then apply again until the paste is opaque and even. You can use a hair dryer to set each layer before beginning a new one.

I’ve found that this works better than applying one thick coat. The first layer helps the second layer stick better, and it all dries much faster. If you slather on one super thick layer and try to dry it, the surface will dry but seal in underneath. Once you wrap your feet and get up, all that wet paste squishes out and slides around. Walking around with squishy paste against your feet is really weird.

If you do apply a thick layer, expect to wait a while for it to dry. Put your feet up in the sun, enjoy a beverage, take a nap...

Wrap

Once your final layer is dry to the touch, use toilet paper to wrap your feet like you are a mummy. Be generous. The layers closest to your feet will get damp and rip. You’ll want several layers over everything, especially the balls and heels of your feet, where you put most of your weight. Use some tape to hold it in place if necessary.

Then, wrap your feet in plastic. Plastic wrap works well enough. So does a grocery bag. Secure with tape. Finally, pull on a pair of socks and you are ready to walk around!

Again, I prefer to do this at night and sleep through the processing time. I’ve found that my feet are too fat to fit into any shoes once they are hennaed and wrapped.

Here, just the balls of the feet and toes were hennaed and wrapped.

Remove

In the morning (or after as many hours as you can stand), unwrap your feet and gently scrape the paste off with a wooden craft stick or the blunt edge of a butter knife. I prefer to do this either outside or sitting on the edge of the tub with my feet in the tub (paste bits are rinsed down the drain for easy cleanup). Use a stiff brush to clear the remaining flakes, and do a quick wipe with a clean, damp towel.

Getting Fancy

Want to add some complexity to your hennaed fingertips and feet? Take a look at all of the free pattern books available at The Henna Page. You can even add gems, glitter, shimmering powders, and more.

These feet were hennaed and decorated in multiple steps. Toes and details were hennaed, left for several hours, and allowed to deepen with oxidation. Applying henna and removing after a short period of time created the bright orange stain. Finally, gilding and jewels were added.

If you have any questions about applying henna to fingertips, nails, and feet, feel free to comment below or email r_chou@mehandi.com

Differences Between BAQ Henna for Body Art, Mass-Produced Henna Cones, and “Black Henna”

This article discusses the difference between products created for the use of decorating the skin. For differences between products labeled as “Henna for Hair,” click here.

For details about rules and regulations regarding the use of henna on skin, consult the About Page.

If you are either a person who is interested in using henna for body art, or if you are someone who wishes to get henna done, it is crucial to be familiar with what is considered real, natural, and safe henna, and what is not. Sadly, there are too many products on the market which claim to be henna (but they are not), and which can be dangerous to the skin. Knowing the difference will keep you and/or your clients safe. This article will describe the differences, and explain how to tell these products apart.

True Henna Paste for Body Art

Let’s start with the good stuff. True body art quality henna paste for the skin is made with BAQ henna powder, an acidic liquid (most commonly lemon juice), essential oils referred to as “terps,” and sometimes some sugar. That’s it. Most artists who use real henna paste mix it themselves in small batches, and fill their own cones. “BAQ” stands for Body Art Quality, indicating that the henna powder is finely sifted and free of additives.

Many henna artists who use true henna mix their own paste and fill their own rolled mylar cones.

When mixed, the paste must be left to dye-release for some time before use, and then kept cold or frozen if not used right away. At room temperature, henna paste will demise after one or two days, causing the dye to weaken. Demise occurs more quickly at warmer temperatures.

Henna comes in only one “color.” It will stain skin a bright orange color which oxidizes to red-brown to deep coffee. The darkness of the stain depends on the area of skin that is being hennaed, proper aftercare of the design, and proper mixing.

Henna stains best on dry, rough skin with several layers. This is why henna is most commonly done on hands and feet. Areas like the back and stomach will stain lighter and fade more quickly.

The longer the paste is kept on, the deeper the stain. Keeping the paste slightly moist and warm will also deepen the stain.

Dye from henna paste migrates into the upper layers of the skin. The stain is orange at first, and oxidizes to deeper colors.

Terps are the only ingredient that will affect the darkness of a stain. Coffee, dyes, and other ingredients should not be added. Terps are essential oils with monoterpene alcohols. These compounds aid in darkening the resulting color from the paste.

Mass-Produced Henna

Several companies produce “henna” paste meant to be used for body art, usually sold in packages with several cones. These are sold on the internet and in international stores. These products contain a number of additional chemicals to preserve the henna dye and to manipulate the color. Rather than using essential oils, cheaper alternatives are added to boost the color. These could be one or more of a wide range of solvents or terpineols that are not mean for use on skin. If you were to hold a flame to the paste and it ignites, it contains something that should not be in henna paste. If the product smells like a gas station or something in a janitorial closet, the same applies.

These pre-made paste cones are sometimes referred to as “chemical cones” by henna artists. Because these products are often produced in countries with loose regulations on ingredients disclosure, it is not enough to check the label.

An example of mass-produced henna body art cones.

Source: York, Melissa. “Trading Standards prioritise dangerous henna in 2013.” Newham Recorder. January 11, 2013. http://www.newhamrecorder.co.uk/news/court-crime/trading_standards_prioritise_dangerous_henna_in_2013_1_1789524

One sure sign of a chemical-laden cone is that it comes in color options. These products are sometimes offered as “red henna,” “brown henna,” and “black henna.” True henna does not vary in color this way. If a product is labeled specifying a color result, it is likely that there are added chemicals and dyes to affect the result. Para-phenylenediamine (PPD) may be added to pastes to darken the color. If the product is labeled “black henna,” it very likely contains PPD. The problems with PPD will be discussed in the section below.

As mentioned above, true henna is normally mixed in small batches by the artist themselves. There are very few companies which sell pre-mixed paste, and if so, it is shipped overnight with insulation or cold packs. If you find a brand that is widely sold over the internet in large quantities and does not require rush shipping, it is most likely a mass-produced product that contains additives to preserve and/or alter the color.

The following link contains a list of henna products seized by the FDA during import. The products described as henna paste or henna cones most likely fall into this category, as they are mass-produced and shipped from overseas. Keep in mind that any product labeled as henna for use on skin or for body art is illegal in the United States and can be seized. Being on this list does not absolutely guarantee that a product is dangerous or harmful. Safety can only be determined with a full list of ingredients and/or with lab testing. Click here to check for henna paste products that may be suspicious.

Such products may also be sold in powder form or in kits for the customer to mix themselves. Pay attention to the instructions and the ingredients list, if one is available. Some of these products instruct the buyer to mix the powder with water and to use it right away. If the instructions do not sound like the normal procedure for mixing and dye-releasing henna paste, it is likely that the product contains additives.

In some cases, such products, either in paste or powder form, contain little to no henna at all. “Black henna” contains high levels of PPD and stains the skin black quickly. PPD might be added to a product that contains some henna in order to darken the result and speed up the staining time. Very often, it is used on its own.

This product was available on Ebay. Notice the labeling. You can clearly see “Black” and “Fast,” and if you look closer, it even has a warning about hypersensitivity.

“Black Henna”

While it is commonly known as “black henna,” the product used to create fast, black stains on skin is not henna at all. It contains a high concentration of para-phenylenediamine, a highly sensitizing compound which can cause contact dermatitis. Severe reactions can include painful blistering, weeping sores, and trouble breathing. These types of reactions require hospitalization.

“Black Henna” is a mix of highly concentrated hair dye powder, and water or peroxide. Countries with lax regulations on PPD concentration produce hair dye with as much as 80% PPD, and this is used illegally for body art. In some cases, an artist may have purchased a product without understanding the difference between true henna and black henna, or the risks. “Black henna” has been sold to people looking for a quick buck during tourist seasons.

This is a common hair dye brand used for mixing “black henna” paste. It contains 40% PPD.

A study demonstrated that 100% of subjects were sensitized to PPD within five applications of a 10% concentration. Not all subjects took five applications to become sensitized. “Black henna” contains anywhere from 15% to upwards of 80% concentration, making it easy to sensitize a person after just one exposure.

After being sensitized, a person will experience worsening reactions each time they come in contact with PPD. Commercial hair dye in the US contains a maximum of 6% PPD. People who do not know that “black henna” and hair dye contain the same ingredient will inadvertently expose themselves to serious allergic reaction if they dye their hair.

An artist mixing “black henna” in Bali. The two bottles are likely to be bottles of hair dye.

Source: Peta Rasdien, “Bali black henna health alert” The West Australian. September 4, 2013. http://au.news.yahoo.com/thewest/a/-/wa/18773124/bali-black-henna-health-alert/

“Black henna” tattoos are commonly offered in areas of tourism, such as boardwalks and beaches. It is illegal in the United States and many other countries, but regulation is difficult and spotty. Every summer, news articles pop up of people experiencing severe reactions to “black henna” tattoos. Oftentimes they are children. Children and young adults are more likely to want a “black henna” tattoo while on vacation. Parents are too often unaware of the risks.

Sometimes vacationers have heard about reactions from “black henna,” but decide to get it done anyway, thinking that the reactions are rare and unlikely to happen to them. In reality, the chances of becoming sensitized to PPD from one “black henna” tattoo are about 50%.

The sign reads, “Black Henna Tattoo / lasts 10 to 15 days / drying time 10 min / resistant to sea water, soap, sun, etc. / more than 2000 designs.”

The part about drying could either imply how long it takes for the paste to dry, or how long it takes to stain.

To learn about para-phenylenediamine and its dangers in detail, read What You Need to Know about Para-Phenylenediamine (PPD)

How to Make Sure You Are Using Pure, BAQ Henna

Now that you know the difference between products labeled as “henna,” you will want to make sure that as an artist you are only using true henna--or, as someone who may want body art done, that the artist you choose is using it.

For Body Artists

Mix your own. Simple as that. Purchase 100% pure, BAQ henna powder from a reputable supplier; hopefully one which tests its product for additives and other chemical adulterants. If you really do not want to mix your own paste or do not have the time, there are some small companies which will sell pre-mixed paste. Make sure to ask for their ingredients. Check to see if they ship the item cold, and overnight. If the product does not have to be kept frozen, do not order it. If it seems like it is a mass-produced chemical cone, do not order it.

For Customers

Stalls offering henna appear at fairs, festivals, and vacation spots during the summer, and year round in sunny locations. Henna is also sometimes available at salons and tattoo shops. Make sure you are ready to ask questions and do a little sleuthing before you let any product touch your skin. Here are some questions to ask, and things to look for.

1. If the stall is outside on a warm day, check where they store their extra paste. Most henna artists keep their extra paste cool or frozen to prevent demise. If they have all of their cones sitting out, they are either “chemical cones,” or the artist does not know how to properly store their henna. Either way, you’ll not want a design from that person.

If the cones look like they have been mass-produced in a factory (some signs might be identical labeling, plastic tips with caps, and cones made of shiny foil packaging), they probably were.

In the case of “black henna,” you might expect to see small containers or fine-tipped bottled containing jet black liquid. “Black henna” must be mixed regularly, as the dye becomes ineffective after about an hour.

2. Look at their signs or portfolios. Many artists keep images of body art done in the past, either for advertising or to help customers select a pattern. There should never be images of patterns done in black paste, or jet black stains. Wet henna paste is green to brown, and dries dark brown. Fresh stains are orange. While a dried henna pattern can be very, it will never be raven black.

Note: Some artists use images of henna that they pulled from the internet. Ask the artist if the photos are of their own work.

3. Look at the artist’s hands. Henna artists very often henna themselves. If not, they may still have henna stains on their fingers from working with the product. The stains should be orange, to deep red, to deep brown, but never jet black. The color of henna varies on thicker skin and calluses. You should be able to see a difference in color between henna on the palms and back of the hands, and from fingertips to wrists.

Fresh stains are bright. After oxidation, the color varies from palm to wrist. A henna artist might have stains on their fingers of hands from working. These stains would vary based on location on the hand and how long ago they occurred.

4. Ask the artist where they get their paste. They should be mixing their own. If they do not, check on the company they give you. If they refuse to tell you, walk away. If they say “It’s from India,” that’s not enough. Just because henna is ordered from a country where it is traditionally used does not mean it is safe.

5. If the artist says they mix their own paste, ask for their ingredients. A good artist will disclose this to you, as there is nothing secret or mysterious about henna paste. It should not be anything more than BAQ henna powder, lemon juice or another mildly acidic liquid, essential oils, and maybe sugar.

6. Ask to smell the paste. You might seem odd for doing it, but you could say that you’re sensitive to certain odors. True henna paste smells like wet grass and essential oils. If you get a whiff of anything that smells like gasoline or harsh chemicals, it’s a no-go. “Black henna” will not have a noticeable odor, but manufactured cones might. Do be careful when sniffing. Do the wafting technique like they teach you in chemistry class, to avoid getting a nose full of something you shouldn’t have.

7. Ask about aftercare and the color of the stain. True henna must be kept on as long as possible, and will initially be a bright orange color when it is first removed. The color deepens over the following couple of days. If the artist says that the paste can be removed after an hour or two (or even as little as fifteen minutes), and that the resulting stain will be immediately black, leave immediately.

With true henna, the initial stain is bright, and will deepen with oxidation during the following 48 hours. Keeping the paste on as long as possible ensures a darker, longer lasting stain. Do not trust any product that produces a fast, dark stain.

8. “Black henna” stalls can be pretty obvious. They might even have a sign that says “black henna tattoos” or something similar. If not, look for black liquid that is applied with a brush, or containers of powdered hair dye. “Black henna” made from highly concentrated hair dye powder needs to be mixed and used rather quickly, and isn’t always applied with a cone. The liquid is black, whereas henna paste is a green or brown color when it is first applied.

(Note: Some henna artists do use brushes, bottles, and syringes, but a rolled cone is most common. “Black henna” liquid is sometimes thinner, and painted onto the skin, especially in the case of tribal designs or other designs with large areas of solid color.)

Photos of advertising and materials at a “black henna” stand at Daytona Beach. You can see a large bottle of 40 volume developer, paint brushes, and small containers. Clearly not what is used for mixing and applying henna.

Source: Alyson Harris. Photos from Alyson Harris's post in PPD Free Henna Artists. Facebook. June 7, 2013.

Final Notes

“Black henna” body art is illegal, and PPD sensitization is serious. If you find yourself at a fair or festival and you suspect that someone is using PPD-based “black henna,” it may be wise to contact the party in charge of the event and explain to them the dangers and liabilities of having such an artist present. If you are on vacation and see a “black henna stall,” contact the local health department. Take a photo on a phone or device that can record time, date, and location if possible. If you are able to get a sample of the product, do so. Please do not touch the paste itself.

If you have recently gotten a “black henna” tattoo and are experiencing a reaction, do the same as above, if possible. Additionally, go to a doctor immediately and tell them that you are experiencing a delayed sensitivity reaction to para-phenylenediamine from “black henna.” Ask for a list of things to avoid. Besides other products containing PPD such as hair dye, a person who is sensitized may develop cross sensitization to a long list of things such as azo-dyes, fragrances, black rubber, and anesthetics. More about PPD sensitization can be found here.

Henna body art can be beautiful. Creating body art on others, and getting body art done should be a safe and enjoyable experience. To ensure this as either an artist or a customer, make sure to insist on only the real thing. If you have further questions about henna on skin, mass-produced henna cones, or “black henna,” feel free to comment below or email r_chou@mehandi.com.

Henna on Fingertips, Feet, and Nails: Cosmetic and Practical Applications (Part One)

This article was originally posted on www.AncientSunrise.blog. For laws and regulations on the use of henna on skin in the United States, see the About page.

This article is the first part of a two-part series. This section will discuss the history and science behind the use of henna on various areas of the body.

Part Two will demonstrate how these techniques are done.

If you are familiar with using Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair, you will already know about the wonderful benefits of using henna. Hennaed hair is stronger, smoother, shinier, and has lasting color. Because of its many beneficial properties, henna (lawsonia inermis) has been used not only on the hair but on many parts of the body for various purposes since possibly as early as 1700 BCE.

Lawsonia inermis grows naturally in hot, semi-arid climates. Regions include Northern Africa, the Arabian Peninsula, and the Indian Subcontinent. Wherever it grew, the people of those regions found a use for it. It was likely discovered when livestock grazed on henna plants and herders noticed the red coloring around the animals’ mouths. If the herders inspected the animals’ mouths for wounds, thinking the dye was blood, they would have noticed that their hands had become stained as well.

Henna has been used for both cosmetic purposes as well as practical applications. Its ability to stain keratin and condition the hair led to its use in grooming and beautifying practices for both women and men. Its additional health benefits made it useful for combating a number of skin conditions, as well as being visually appealing.

Cosmetic Applications

Henna is now more commonly known for its use in body art, such as the elaborate designs that cover the hands and feet of brides. Henna stands are popular at fairs, festivals, and in areas of tourism. Traditionally, henna is used to decorate the skin with patterns for religious and cultural celebrations, and simply for adornment. Apart from its use to create delicate, intricate designs, henna was also applied as a solid, even color on areas such as fingertips and feet for both beauty and practicality.

Dancers and musicians hennaed their fingertips to bring more attention to the movement of their hands. A henna “slipper” on the feet was common in many cultures. Using henna for cosmetic applications was once as commonplace as using makeup or nail polish. In many cases, not applying henna would be something akin to not brushing one’s teeth; failing to do so would make a person seem dirty and neglectful of their personal hygiene.

Physical and Spiritual Cleanliness

Henna stains darkest on hands, feet, and hair.

Because henna was applied after washing, it indicated cleanliness, and therefore purity. This is especially the case with women. If a person’s hands, feet, and/or hair was freshly hennaed, one could assume that they had recently been to the public bath.

It was assumed that illness was linked to the Evil Eye, and that henna repelled it. A freshly washed and hennaed body was both physically and spiritually clean. It was believed that the Evil Eye was particularly attracted to the bodily fluids of women. A woman was considered dirty and susceptible to the Evil Eye while during her period, after intercourse, and during childbirth; afterward, she washed and hennaed herself. Fresh henna stains showed that she was again clean and pure. In the case of a household with multiple wives, fresh henna marked the women with whom it was safe for the husband to interact.

A mother feeds her newborn. Her hands and feet are adorned with henna patterns. Her wet-nurse has brightly hennaed hands, feet, and hair.

“The Amah Feeds the Newborn” Detail from Life in The Country: The Nomad Encampment of Layla’s Tribe, Tabriz, 1539 – 43, Cambridge, Harvard University Art Museum 1958.75

Practical Applications

Remedies which included henna as an ingredient have been discovered in historical texts such as the Ebers Papyrus that date back to thousands of years ago.

The Ebers Papyrus is a text from Ancient Egypt containing hundreds of detailed descriptions of remedies, pharmacopoeia, and formulas gathered and cataloged from numerous sources. It dates back to around 1550 BCE. Many of these remedies included henna as an ingredient. Of those, most common were topical applications for hair and skin ailments.

Modern day scientific studies have found that using henna as a remedy is more than an old wives’ tale. Studies have shown the effectiveness of henna, and/or solutions derived from henna and its compounds, to be effective in anti-fungal, anti-microbial, anti-inflammatory, and even anti-cancer uses. It has been found to expedite wound healing, and also to act as an analgesic against pain. Lawsone also provides natural UV protection to hair and skin. This protection lasts even after the stain has faded from the skin. This bodes well for future pharmaceutical innovations. Allergy to henna is extremely rare, and the spread of knowledge about practical applications for henna would keep henna agriculture sustainable.

In addition to the above properties, the simple binding of the lawsone molecule strengthens keratin, reinforcing and conditioning the area to which it is applied. This makes it extremely useful for protecting and conditioning hands, feet, and hair.

When henna paste is applied, the dye migrates into the surface layers of the stratum corneum. As it oxidizes, the stain darkens. The surface layers of skin are shed over time, and the lower layers grow to replace them.

Strengthening Skin and Lessening Pain

Henna’s dye molecule, lawsone, binds firmly to keratin, allowing it to stain skin, nails, and hair. When it does so, it adds reinforcement.

When henna is applied to skin, the treated areas feel thicker, stronger, and less susceptible to pain. While it strengthened and protected skin, henna also helped to soften and shed excess rough skin and callus, keeping the skin smooth and attractive. Dancers hennaed their feet to make them more attractive and to keep their feet from blistering, cracking, and hurting after long hours of performing. Musicians did so as well, to protect their fingers as they played. Women who worked with their hands hennaed their fingertips for the same reason.

It is likely that the pain receptors under the skin become somewhat dulled by the addition of lawsone. One study found that people with hennaed fingertips rated the pain of a needle prick lower in comparison to those without hennaed fingertips. This is helpful knowledge for those who prick their fingers to perform regular blood sugar testing.

Henna protects a musician’s fingertips.

A Lady Playing the Tanpura, Rajasthan, Kishangarh, ca. 1735, Metropolitan Museum of Art, New York, Fletcher Fund, 1996 (1996,100.1) Indian Court Painting, 16th – 19th C

Anti-Fungal and Anti-Microbial Properties

Besides its capacity to bind to and stain keratin, henna was and still is used for its anti-fungal and antimicrobial qualities. Historically, it has been used to treat ailments such as athlete’s foot, diaper rash, and wounds. (Note: Do not apply henna to young children unless you are absolutely certain that they do not have a hereditary G6PD deficiency).

Ringworm, athlete's foot, and related skin fungus conditions seem to be eradicated with one or two good applications of henna. Dandruff, often caused by fungus, is lessened after a person uses henna on the hair. Henna is safe to use on animals to treat fungal infections.

1. Athlete’s foot (tinea pedis) blistering began at the yellow dot and spread as far as the orange dots.

2. Henna is thickly applied to the affected area and left for two hours. Itching ceased almost immediately upon application.

3. As the stain darkened, the infected area peeled away.

4. After several days and an additional application, the infected area had shed and new healthy skin grew in its place.

Wound Healing Properties

Henna speeds wound healing and decreases inflammation. Wounds appear to heal more quickly when henna is applied; however, if an open wound is stained with henna, the stain may become permanent when new skin grows over top. A weaker henna paste mixed with oil could be used on open wounds for minimal staining.

In Saudi Arabia, henna is a recommended remedy for diabetic foot ailments, as it lessened pain and inflammation from diabetic neuropathy, and helped lesions heal quickly while deterring infection.

It is rare to see art depicting men with hennaed feet. This man may have had diabetic neuropathy, or just tired feet.

Detail: “Nighttime in a Palace” (1539 – 43, Iran), folio from a manuscript, attributed to Mir Sayyid ‘Ali (Persian, 16th century), Arthur M. Sackler

Henna on the Fingertips and Nails

Henna can protect weak nails against chipping, breaking, and flaking. While skin regularly sheds its outer layers, causing a henna stain to fade after a couple of weeks, henna fades very little on nails. It remains there until the stained part has grown and is clipped away. If the nails have a fungus infection, henna would eradicate it.

Henna on nails and henna on fingertips. A fully oxidized stain on skin is a deep maroon brown.

Using henna to stain fingernails dates back to ancient times, and has been practiced in many regions and cultures. In Ancient Egypt, henna was commonly used to stain fingernails, and it was even considered impolite to have unhennaed nails. Mummies have been discovered with bright orange hair and nails, likely due to the used of henna in preparing the body for burial.

The sarcophagus of the chantress Asru has darkened nails. Circa 750 BCE.

In Islamic and Orthodox Jewish cultures, it is important to keep clean for prayer. Use of conventional nail polish is not allowed because the coating prevents water from touching the surface of the nail. Hennaed nails are acceptable because henna stains the nail without coating it.

A lower concentration of lawsone is also found in the leaves and flowers of garden balsam, a species of impatiens. In Korea, young girls crush the plant into a paste and apply it to their fingertips for a light orange stain.

From the St. Pancras Pattern Book by Catherine Cartwright-Jones

Henna on Feet

Henna keeps feet clean, protected, and conditioned. It is used to rid one of athlete’s foot and similar fungal ailments that affect the feet. Henna aids in the softening and shedding of calloused skin, leaving feet smooth and soft.

Variations of the henna slipper can be seen in artwork and photographs from various cultures across time. This was done across the whole sole of the foot and toes, or just from the ball of the foot to the toes. A solid slipper was common for most; additional elaborate designs decorated the feet of brides, new mothers, and the upper class.

An illustration of Persian women’s fashion shows hennaed feet. From a book printed in Paris, France, late 19th century.

From the Spain Pattern Book by Alex Morgan, and the St. Pancras Pattern Book By Catherine Cartwright-Jones

Stay tuned for Part Two of this series, which will demonstrate how to apply henna to nails, fingertips, and feet.

References

Bakhotmah, Balkees A., and Hasan A. Alzahrani. "Self-reported use of complementary and alternative medicine (CAM) products in topical treatment of diabetic foot disorders by diabetic patients in Jeddah, Western Saudi Arabia." BMC research notes 3.1 (2010): 254.

David, A. R., and V. Garner. "Asru, an ancient Egyptian temple chantress: modern spectrometric studies as part of the Manchester Egyptian Mummy Research Project." Molecular and Structural Archaeology: Cosmetic and Therapeutic Chemicals (2003): 153-162.

Pradhan, Rohan, Prasad Dandawate, Alok Vyas, Subhash Padhye, Bernhard Biersack, Rainer Schobert, Aamir Ahmad, and Fazlul H Sarkar. "From body art to anticancer activities: perspectives on medicinal properties of henna." Current drug targets 13, no. 14 (2012): 1777-1798.

Semwal, Ruchi Badoni, Deepak Kumar Semwal, Sandra Combrinck, Catherine Cartwright-Jones, and Alvaro Viljoen. "Lawsonia inermis L.(henna): ethnobotanical, phytochemical and pharmacological aspects." Journal of Ethnopharmacology 155, no. 1 (2014): 80-103.