This article discusses the difference between products created for the use of decorating the skin. For differences between products labeled as “Henna for Hair,” click here.
For details about rules and regulations regarding the use of henna on skin, consult the About Page.
If you are either a person who is interested in using henna for body art, or if you are someone who wishes to get henna done, it is crucial to be familiar with what is considered real, natural, and safe henna, and what is not. Sadly, there are too many products on the market which claim to be henna (but they are not), and which can be dangerous to the skin. Knowing the difference will keep you and/or your clients safe. This article will describe the differences, and explain how to tell these products apart.
True Henna Paste for Body Art
Let’s start with the good stuff. True body art quality henna paste for the skin is made with BAQ henna powder, an acidic liquid (most commonly lemon juice), essential oils referred to as “terps,” and sometimes some sugar. That’s it. Most artists who use real henna paste mix it themselves in small batches, and fill their own cones. “BAQ” stands for Body Art Quality, indicating that the henna powder is finely sifted and free of additives.
Many henna artists who use true henna mix their own paste and fill their own rolled mylar cones.
When mixed, the paste must be left to dye-release for some time before use, and then kept cold or frozen if not used right away. At room temperature, henna paste will demise after one or two days, causing the dye to weaken. Demise occurs more quickly at warmer temperatures.
Henna comes in only one “color.” It will stain skin a bright orange color which oxidizes to red-brown to deep coffee. The darkness of the stain depends on the area of skin that is being hennaed, proper aftercare of the design, and proper mixing.
Henna stains best on dry, rough skin with several layers. This is why henna is most commonly done on hands and feet. Areas like the back and stomach will stain lighter and fade more quickly.
The longer the paste is kept on, the deeper the stain. Keeping the paste slightly moist and warm will also deepen the stain.
Dye from henna paste migrates into the upper layers of the skin. The stain is orange at first, and oxidizes to deeper colors.
Terps are the only ingredient that will affect the darkness of a stain. Coffee, dyes, and other ingredients should not be added. Terps are essential oils with monoterpene alcohols. These compounds aid in darkening the resulting color from the paste.
Mass-Produced Henna
Several companies produce “henna” paste meant to be used for body art, usually sold in packages with several cones. These are sold on the internet and in international stores. These products contain a number of additional chemicals to preserve the henna dye and to manipulate the color. Rather than using essential oils, cheaper alternatives are added to boost the color. These could be one or more of a wide range of solvents or terpineols that are not mean for use on skin. If you were to hold a flame to the paste and it ignites, it contains something that should not be in henna paste. If the product smells like a gas station or something in a janitorial closet, the same applies.
These pre-made paste cones are sometimes referred to as “chemical cones” by henna artists. Because these products are often produced in countries with loose regulations on ingredients disclosure, it is not enough to check the label.
An example of mass-produced henna body art cones.
Source: York, Melissa. “Trading Standards prioritise dangerous henna in 2013.” Newham Recorder. January 11, 2013. http://www.newhamrecorder.co.uk/news/court-crime/trading_standards_prioritise_dangerous_henna_in_2013_1_1789524
One sure sign of a chemical-laden cone is that it comes in color options. These products are sometimes offered as “red henna,” “brown henna,” and “black henna.” True henna does not vary in color this way. If a product is labeled specifying a color result, it is likely that there are added chemicals and dyes to affect the result. Para-phenylenediamine (PPD) may be added to pastes to darken the color. If the product is labeled “black henna,” it very likely contains PPD. The problems with PPD will be discussed in the section below.
As mentioned above, true henna is normally mixed in small batches by the artist themselves. There are very few companies which sell pre-mixed paste, and if so, it is shipped overnight with insulation or cold packs. If you find a brand that is widely sold over the internet in large quantities and does not require rush shipping, it is most likely a mass-produced product that contains additives to preserve and/or alter the color.
The following link contains a list of henna products seized by the FDA during import. The products described as henna paste or henna cones most likely fall into this category, as they are mass-produced and shipped from overseas. Keep in mind that any product labeled as henna for use on skin or for body art is illegal in the United States and can be seized. Being on this list does not absolutely guarantee that a product is dangerous or harmful. Safety can only be determined with a full list of ingredients and/or with lab testing. Click here to check for henna paste products that may be suspicious.
Such products may also be sold in powder form or in kits for the customer to mix themselves. Pay attention to the instructions and the ingredients list, if one is available. Some of these products instruct the buyer to mix the powder with water and to use it right away. If the instructions do not sound like the normal procedure for mixing and dye-releasing henna paste, it is likely that the product contains additives.
In some cases, such products, either in paste or powder form, contain little to no henna at all. “Black henna” contains high levels of PPD and stains the skin black quickly. PPD might be added to a product that contains some henna in order to darken the result and speed up the staining time. Very often, it is used on its own.
This product was available on Ebay. Notice the labeling. You can clearly see “Black” and “Fast,” and if you look closer, it even has a warning about hypersensitivity.
“Black Henna”
While it is commonly known as “black henna,” the product used to create fast, black stains on skin is not henna at all. It contains a high concentration of para-phenylenediamine, a highly sensitizing compound which can cause contact dermatitis. Severe reactions can include painful blistering, weeping sores, and trouble breathing. These types of reactions require hospitalization.
“Black Henna” is a mix of highly concentrated hair dye powder, and water or peroxide. Countries with lax regulations on PPD concentration produce hair dye with as much as 80% PPD, and this is used illegally for body art. In some cases, an artist may have purchased a product without understanding the difference between true henna and black henna, or the risks. “Black henna” has been sold to people looking for a quick buck during tourist seasons.
This is a common hair dye brand used for mixing “black henna” paste. It contains 40% PPD.
A study demonstrated that 100% of subjects were sensitized to PPD within five applications of a 10% concentration. Not all subjects took five applications to become sensitized. “Black henna” contains anywhere from 15% to upwards of 80% concentration, making it easy to sensitize a person after just one exposure.
After being sensitized, a person will experience worsening reactions each time they come in contact with PPD. Commercial hair dye in the US contains a maximum of 6% PPD. People who do not know that “black henna” and hair dye contain the same ingredient will inadvertently expose themselves to serious allergic reaction if they dye their hair.
An artist mixing “black henna” in Bali. The two bottles are likely to be bottles of hair dye.
Source: Peta Rasdien, “Bali black henna health alert” The West Australian. September 4, 2013. http://au.news.yahoo.com/thewest/a/-/wa/18773124/bali-black-henna-health-alert/
“Black henna” tattoos are commonly offered in areas of tourism, such as boardwalks and beaches. It is illegal in the United States and many other countries, but regulation is difficult and spotty. Every summer, news articles pop up of people experiencing severe reactions to “black henna” tattoos. Oftentimes they are children. Children and young adults are more likely to want a “black henna” tattoo while on vacation. Parents are too often unaware of the risks.
Sometimes vacationers have heard about reactions from “black henna,” but decide to get it done anyway, thinking that the reactions are rare and unlikely to happen to them. In reality, the chances of becoming sensitized to PPD from one “black henna” tattoo are about 50%.
The sign reads, “Black Henna Tattoo / lasts 10 to 15 days / drying time 10 min / resistant to sea water, soap, sun, etc. / more than 2000 designs.”
The part about drying could either imply how long it takes for the paste to dry, or how long it takes to stain.
To learn about para-phenylenediamine and its dangers in detail, read What You Need to Know about Para-Phenylenediamine (PPD)
How to Make Sure You Are Using Pure, BAQ Henna
Now that you know the difference between products labeled as “henna,” you will want to make sure that as an artist you are only using true henna--or, as someone who may want body art done, that the artist you choose is using it.
For Body Artists
Mix your own. Simple as that. Purchase 100% pure, BAQ henna powder from a reputable supplier; hopefully one which tests its product for additives and other chemical adulterants. If you really do not want to mix your own paste or do not have the time, there are some small companies which will sell pre-mixed paste. Make sure to ask for their ingredients. Check to see if they ship the item cold, and overnight. If the product does not have to be kept frozen, do not order it. If it seems like it is a mass-produced chemical cone, do not order it.
For Customers
Stalls offering henna appear at fairs, festivals, and vacation spots during the summer, and year round in sunny locations. Henna is also sometimes available at salons and tattoo shops. Make sure you are ready to ask questions and do a little sleuthing before you let any product touch your skin. Here are some questions to ask, and things to look for.
1. If the stall is outside on a warm day, check where they store their extra paste. Most henna artists keep their extra paste cool or frozen to prevent demise. If they have all of their cones sitting out, they are either “chemical cones,” or the artist does not know how to properly store their henna. Either way, you’ll not want a design from that person.
If the cones look like they have been mass-produced in a factory (some signs might be identical labeling, plastic tips with caps, and cones made of shiny foil packaging), they probably were.
In the case of “black henna,” you might expect to see small containers or fine-tipped bottled containing jet black liquid. “Black henna” must be mixed regularly, as the dye becomes ineffective after about an hour.
2. Look at their signs or portfolios. Many artists keep images of body art done in the past, either for advertising or to help customers select a pattern. There should never be images of patterns done in black paste, or jet black stains. Wet henna paste is green to brown, and dries dark brown. Fresh stains are orange. While a dried henna pattern can be very, it will never be raven black.
Note: Some artists use images of henna that they pulled from the internet. Ask the artist if the photos are of their own work.
3. Look at the artist’s hands. Henna artists very often henna themselves. If not, they may still have henna stains on their fingers from working with the product. The stains should be orange, to deep red, to deep brown, but never jet black. The color of henna varies on thicker skin and calluses. You should be able to see a difference in color between henna on the palms and back of the hands, and from fingertips to wrists.
Fresh stains are bright. After oxidation, the color varies from palm to wrist. A henna artist might have stains on their fingers of hands from working. These stains would vary based on location on the hand and how long ago they occurred.
4. Ask the artist where they get their paste. They should be mixing their own. If they do not, check on the company they give you. If they refuse to tell you, walk away. If they say “It’s from India,” that’s not enough. Just because henna is ordered from a country where it is traditionally used does not mean it is safe.
5. If the artist says they mix their own paste, ask for their ingredients. A good artist will disclose this to you, as there is nothing secret or mysterious about henna paste. It should not be anything more than BAQ henna powder, lemon juice or another mildly acidic liquid, essential oils, and maybe sugar.
6. Ask to smell the paste. You might seem odd for doing it, but you could say that you’re sensitive to certain odors. True henna paste smells like wet grass and essential oils. If you get a whiff of anything that smells like gasoline or harsh chemicals, it’s a no-go. “Black henna” will not have a noticeable odor, but manufactured cones might. Do be careful when sniffing. Do the wafting technique like they teach you in chemistry class, to avoid getting a nose full of something you shouldn’t have.
7. Ask about aftercare and the color of the stain. True henna must be kept on as long as possible, and will initially be a bright orange color when it is first removed. The color deepens over the following couple of days. If the artist says that the paste can be removed after an hour or two (or even as little as fifteen minutes), and that the resulting stain will be immediately black, leave immediately.
With true henna, the initial stain is bright, and will deepen with oxidation during the following 48 hours. Keeping the paste on as long as possible ensures a darker, longer lasting stain. Do not trust any product that produces a fast, dark stain.
8. “Black henna” stalls can be pretty obvious. They might even have a sign that says “black henna tattoos” or something similar. If not, look for black liquid that is applied with a brush, or containers of powdered hair dye. “Black henna” made from highly concentrated hair dye powder needs to be mixed and used rather quickly, and isn’t always applied with a cone. The liquid is black, whereas henna paste is a green or brown color when it is first applied.
(Note: Some henna artists do use brushes, bottles, and syringes, but a rolled cone is most common. “Black henna” liquid is sometimes thinner, and painted onto the skin, especially in the case of tribal designs or other designs with large areas of solid color.)
Photos of advertising and materials at a “black henna” stand at Daytona Beach. You can see a large bottle of 40 volume developer, paint brushes, and small containers. Clearly not what is used for mixing and applying henna.
Source: Alyson Harris. Photos from Alyson Harris's post in PPD Free Henna Artists. Facebook. June 7, 2013.
Final Notes
“Black henna” body art is illegal, and PPD sensitization is serious. If you find yourself at a fair or festival and you suspect that someone is using PPD-based “black henna,” it may be wise to contact the party in charge of the event and explain to them the dangers and liabilities of having such an artist present. If you are on vacation and see a “black henna stall,” contact the local health department. Take a photo on a phone or device that can record time, date, and location if possible. If you are able to get a sample of the product, do so. Please do not touch the paste itself.
If you have recently gotten a “black henna” tattoo and are experiencing a reaction, do the same as above, if possible. Additionally, go to a doctor immediately and tell them that you are experiencing a delayed sensitivity reaction to para-phenylenediamine from “black henna.” Ask for a list of things to avoid. Besides other products containing PPD such as hair dye, a person who is sensitized may develop cross sensitization to a long list of things such as azo-dyes, fragrances, black rubber, and anesthetics. More about PPD sensitization can be found here.
Henna body art can be beautiful. Creating body art on others, and getting body art done should be a safe and enjoyable experience. To ensure this as either an artist or a customer, make sure to insist on only the real thing. If you have further questions about henna on skin, mass-produced henna cones, or “black henna,” feel free to comment below or email r_chou@mehandi.com.
