Author: Rebecca Chou

Looking Back and Looking Forward

In the summer of 2017, we began The Ancient Sunrise® Blog and The Becoming Moonlight® Blog. The idea started out with a simple question: How could we educate more people about the science and art of henna? Catherine Cartwright Jones’ work was freely available online, we had active Facebook groups and pages, and Mehandi customer service could be reached via phone, email, chat, and social media platforms. Yet there was still more we could do to provide clear, accurate information to more people across the world.

The internet was already flooded with various videos, articles, and “recipes” for henna. Most of them provided inaccurate, strange, or downright bad information. Myths about henna were also perpetuated through word of mouth via salon stylists and cosmetology schools whose texts had outdated information about (compound) henna. Every day, customer service answered the same questions, dispelled the same myths, and reassured customers over and over that henna was a safe and easy process. People believed that henna made one’s hair fall out. Many were told that once they use henna, they can never dye or perm their hair again.

Others were ready to jump into using henna, but have been given incorrect information about how to mix and apply the paste. What should they add to the henna? Boiling water? Coffee? Yogurt? How do they get brunette results instead of red? What is indigo? How do you use it?

At the time, I had been working for Mehandi as a customer service representative and at the brick and mortar store, Empire, in downtown Kent. I was preparing to leave Kent, Ohio for Montreal, Quebec where my partner was pursuing his doctorate degree. I realized that one thing Mehandi did not yet have was a blog presence. Blogs and vlogs were growing again in popularity, especially for niche interests such as hair care and natural beauty. I mentioned the idea of trying to connect with bloggers.

Catherine thought about it and then one day asked me, “Why don’t you write a blog?” It made sense; I loved working for the company and my background was in writing and in academic research. This way, I could continue doing what I loved even while living abroad. Although blogging was something I had never done before, I was excited to try it. We decided to create one site for each brand: The Ancient Sunrise® Blog for all things related to henna for hair, and The Becoming Moonlight® Blog for body art.

That summer, we brainstormed topics and collected materials. We discussed our vision for the blogs. We agreed that we wanted the writing to be thorough and well-researched, yet accessible to the everyday reader. With so much misinformation surrounding henna, a crucial goal for the blogs was to provide the truth and dispel myths. Many blogs on henna for hair already existed but spouted inaccurate claims and bad mixing/application processes. We wanted this to be different. We wanted to set it straight. The articles would be based on research and science. They would be easy to read, but not “fluff.” There was already too much fluff.

Catherine and I joked about “fixing the internet.” With the thousands of articles and videos about henna already in existence, how could we make a difference and set the truth straight? I felt like an ant faced with the task of dismantling a sandcastle one grain at a time. Catherine took a couple of thumb drives and filled them with the hundreds of academic articles she had collected during her time in graduate school. It was a virtual library. Armed with the thumb drives and Google Scholar, I was ready.

Funny how the internet works. Search engines have complex algorithms that decide which pages are listed first. In a snowball effect, sites with more readership gain more readership. Good articles are shared across platforms like Facebook, and this gains the article more readership, which bumps the site up in searches. Someone better-versed in technology could explain it better than I. All I know is what began as a slow trickle of page views grew over the months and years, then rapidly spiked to an average of 750 page views per day. Oftentimes as I researched and wrote new articles, I’d run a quick search on Google to find a piece of information I needed and I’d be stunned to find links to my own articles in the search results.

I wanted to be a writer from the time I could read. I couldn’t believe that, through such an unexpected turn of events, I wound up writing about henna with readers across the world. I had people in Finland and Egypt and Japan reading my words! Things that I wrote! It was both thrilling and rather terrifying. I once posted on my own social media that the Ancient Sunrise® blog was now read on every continent except Antarctica. A friend who saw my post just happened to know someone working on research in Antarctica at the time. He sent that friend a link, that friend opened it, and it became official: The blog had been accessed on every continent.

Since the launch in August 2017, there are now nearly sixty articles and/or videos in the two blogs combined. Out of the two, the Ancient Sunrise Blog contains the larger body of work and has the higher readership. The Becoming Moonlight® Blog was always more creative and experimental in nature, but still had a very special place in my heart.

In the Ancient Sunrise® Blog, the Henna for Hair 101 series helps those who are new to the process of coloring their hair with henna and other plant dye powders. This series contains some of the most frequently-read articles such as “How to Dye-Release Henna” and “Don’t Put Food On Your Head.”

Other articles were written with the more experienced “henna-head” in mind. Full-Coverage articles are focused on troubleshooting specific issues such as resistant gray roots and discusses advanced techniques to ensure the best results. Highlights articles feature specific products and discuss topics related to henna for hair. One of the most popular Highlights articles is “Should You Be Using Lemon Juice In Your Henna Mix?” It clarifies many misconceptions about whether or not lemon juice is the “best” acidic liquid for mixing henna.

Some of my favorite articles to write were those which explored henna, body art, and hair in historical and cultural contexts. In “Oscar Wilde’s Hair and Skin: Investigations into His PPD Sensitization and Use of Henna,” I speculated on the famous writer’s use of PPD hair dye and henna hair dye based on portraits of Wilde and historical references. In “Gender, Race, and Class in Hair Styling Spaces: Constructing Individual and Group Identities,” I summarized many researchers’ sociological studies of interactions between clients and stylists in hair salons and barber shops in a variety of socioeconomic settings. The research showed how the hair styling spaces served a purpose in forming and performing one’s identity.

Some very important work was done in educating readers about PPD in articles such as “What You Need to Know about Para-Phenylenediamine (PPD)”. The article remains one of the most read articles of the Ancient Sunrise® Blog. One important goal of Mehandi has always been to help in the fight against the PPD sensitization epidemic in our own small way by offering safer alternatives to conventional hair dyes. I am so glad that this article and others in the PPD series has reached so many.

The Becoming Moonlight® Blog was home to body art, poetry, videos, and explorations into the traditions of natural cosmetics across time and cultures. It offered tutorials on Becoming Moonlight® Gilding Paste for “white henna” designs, as well as advice for body artists who wanted to incorporate gilding paste into their businesses. It also discussed the uses of henna on skin. One of my favorite articles to write and research was “Playing Exotic: Interactions Between Omo Valley People and Western Tourists” which investigated the ways in which the people of the Omo Valley in Ethiopia used body paint, piercings, and costuming to negotiate their identities under the gaze of outsiders.

It has been an honor to create content that educates and entertains those who love henna and body art and who want to learn more. My hope is that slowly but surely, the strength of these blogs will overcome the mountain of misinformation so that one day accurate knowledge about henna will be as commonplace as how to fry an egg (it’s only complicated at first).

Beginning January 2019, I will be handing the blogs over to the Mehandi customer service staff so I can become a different kind of educator. Whether it be writing about henna or teaching English, I have always been drawn to opportunities to connect with others and to expand their knowledge.

I want to thank all those who have read and shared my articles. It is your enthusiasm for henna and science that led the blogs’ success. Thank you also to the Mehandi family for your support, suggestions, and edits. Thank you to Catherine Cartwright-Jones and Roy Jones for your belief in me, for your wisdom, and for your encouragement. This has been an incredible opportunity. Looking back, I am always blown away by how much has happened in two years’ time. I am excited to see how the blogs continue to grow under the care of the brilliant and creative customer service staff. I know that things can only get bigger and better.

With all of my heart: Thank you, I love you, and I wish you all the best.

My Vow

My Vow

I promise
to call you by your name
your name
the shape of it
built from your bones
your body
the one you built
the one you chose
for the mind you grew
your mind
a wild garden
that lush and sacred place
that vast and winding place
and I promise
to tend to it
to protect it
to remember it
to say it aloud
Your Mind
Your Body
Your Name

The Art of Decorating Eggs and How to Decorate Eggs with Becoming Moonlight®

Every spring, our world becomes inundated with eggs. Adults fill colorful plastic eggs with treats and hide them for their children. Stores are packed with candies and chocolates in the shape of eggs. We decorate our homes with images of eggs. And of course, we decorate eggs. These eggs are most often associated with Easter, the holiday that celebrates the return of Jesus from the dead. However, the story of his resurrection does not have any mention of eggs.

How a Christian holiday associated with the return of Jesus from the dead became so synonymous with colorful eggs and rabbits comes from a history of blending between old European pagan traditions and folklore, and the introduction of Christianity to those areas. Oftentimes these traditions are aligned with a celebration of springtime. Egg decorating can be traced back thousands of years, with decorated eggs being found in Egypt. Persian traditions also include painting eggs for Nowruz, the Persian new year, which falls on the vernal equinox. As Christianity came into dominance in certain egg-decorating cultures, specifically those in Slavic Europe, the practice was adopted. Many common motifs and patterns from pre-Christian times remained, while new ones were introduced.

Traditional Ukrainian Pysanky Eggs. Image source

Perhaps the most well-known are the elaborately dyed eggs from Slavic cultures, such as Ukrainian art of pysanky or pysanka, which is a wax-resist method. The technique involves alternating applications of beeswax and dye in such a way that the wax protects the color of the dye underneath it. It is also practiced in Hungary, Lithuania, and Romania. The video below shows a woman in a historic village of Romania practicing her home’s techniques.

The Technique

Traditionally, the beeswax is applied with a tool called a kistka, which is a small funnel attached to the end of a stick. It may also be a pinhead or a wire. The tool is used to draw intricate patterns with wax onto the surface of the egg. The first application of wax protects the white of the shell from the dye. The egg is then dyed first with a light color and dried, after which more wax patterns are applied. This continues with successive darker colors of the artist’s choice, with each color protected by the wax that covers it. When all layers are completed, the wax is gently melted away by warming the egg over a flame or in an oven and then rubbed away with a cloth, revealing beautiful, colorful designs.

Traditional Kistka tools for applying wax. Image source

Eggs are either hollowed of their contents, baked, or hard-boiled. Certain patterns hold symbolic meanings associated with springtime, fertility, farming, and nature. Egg designs will vary from region to region, as individual villages teach the tradition to their younger generations. Those who decorated eggs are most commonly women, and the technique is taught to the daughters. A skilled artist might complete hundreds of eggs each season and sell them to locals and tourists.

Pysanky with Becoming Moonlight®

I decided to give this method of wax-resist a try, using materials from Becoming Moonlight in place of the dyes and techniques that would be traditionally used. Many of the patterns you will see below come from the Spellstone Europe pattern book by Alex Morgan. The patterns in this book are based on traditional patterns related to springtime, the vernal equinox, and fertility. This book and others are available for free download at Hennapage.com. Follow this link to go straight to the E-books.

“Spellstone Europe” and other free pattern books are available at HennaPage.com

Because I did not have a traditional tool, I created a few. One was simply a pin pushed into the eraser end of a pencil. I could dip the end of the pin into molten wax, then use it to create small lines and dots on the eggshell. This is called the “drop-pull” method and could spread wax only across short distances until there was no wax left on the pinhead. The lines would begin wide, then taper off. I did not quite get the hang of this specific technique, but I did mimic it using Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste and mics powders, which you can see further down in this article.

I also constructed a tool similar to the traditional kistka by cutting a circle of aluminum from the side of a soda can and rolling it into a pointed funnel, not unlike a tiny mylar cone used for gilding paste or henna. I cut a very small amount from the tip to create a hole through which the melted wax could flow, then attached the cone to a pencil by hammering two small brads through the metal and into the eraser end. The funnel can hold more wax, which flowed through the tip like a fountain pen when touched to the surface of the egg. This tool allowed for longer lines of consistent width.

Constructing kistka from items available at home .

Through my research, I learned that it is best to keep the hand holding the tool steady while rotating the egg. I also found that there were two ways the kistka was used: it was either dipped into molten wax, or it was heated over a flame then used to scoop a small amount of solid wax. By keeping the tool warm, the wax would melt and gradually flow through the tip. I found the latter method to be easier to control.

When the kistka is held over a flame, the wax is darkened by soot, making it easy to see as it is applied to the egg.

Ancient Blue®: Crystallized Indigo Vat

Ancient Blue® is a product from Mehandi which can be used to create blue designs on the skin. It is created by turning a fermented indigo vat into a crystalline state. The crystals are added to water and the resulting liquid can be painted onto the skin creating a stain that will last several days. The effect mimics the blue body art known as woading from the Iron Age of Britain. This indigo is the same kind of dye originally used for denim, as well as fabric-dyeing traditions from India to Japan. Ancient Blue® can be found here at Mehandi.com. More information about its use as body art can be found here.

Legs painted with Ancient Blue®. Free pattern book available at Hennapage.com.
Indigo-dyed eggs using wax resist and “false wax resist” methods.

I filled a jar with enough water to fully cover a submerged egg, sprinkled in about a teaspoon of indigo crystals, and let them dissolve for a few minutes. When I dipped the eggs into the dye for a short amount of time, they turned a lovely shade of soft indigo. The eggs became darker with each successive layer. This way, I was able to create monochromatic designs on an egg using a method similar to traditional pysanky, but with one color rather than several. By adding more Ancient Blue® crystals into the vat, I increased the intensity of the dye to achieve darker hues.

An egg after several layers of wax and indigo.
When the wax is melted away, the patterns are revealed.

If you would like to try this method, I would recommend using boiled or baked eggs rather than hollow ones, as the eggs need to submerge completely under the surface of the dye in order to achieve a deep, consistent color. You could also hollow raw eggs after dyeing them.

I also played around with turmeric paste and found I could achieve a pale yellow color on the eggshell. I mixed turmeric powder, water, and a small amount of vinegar into a thick paste and coated the egg, letting it sit for a couple of hours. The result was a pale, bright yellow similar to a highlighter color. I then waxed those areas I wanted to keep yellow, and dyed again with indigo.

An egg first dyed with turmeric, then again with Ancient Blue® Indigo. The design is revealed as the wax is warmed and rubbed away.
Finished egg with Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste, powders, and gems.

Becoming Moonlight® Gilding Paste and Gilding Powders

A Becoming Moonlight® alternative to wax resist is the gilding paste resist. Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste is an adhesive which is applied via a cone, much in the same way traditional henna is done. Unlike traditional henna, the paste contains no dye and sits on the top of the skin. It is sealed with a glitter or mica powder, allowing for a henna-like design in any imaginable color. It is especially nice for “white henna” body art. Because the paste is water-resistant, it is a suitable material for resist dyeing. One can apply a design using gilding paste, seal the paste with mica, then apply Ancient Blue® overtop. When the gilding paste is removed, a white design is left behind where the paste protected the eggshell from the indigo dye. Be sure to peel off the gilding paste immediately after the Ancient Blue® indigo dye has dried, as gilding paste will be very difficult to remove from the egg after it has been left too long. Unlike skin, eggshells are hard and brittle, which can make removal of gilding paste more difficult.

The gilding paste can also be used as a decorative material itself, to mimic the beautiful golden and jeweled designs of Faberge eggs. Simply apply gilding paste designs to a dyed egg, allow the paste to set for about ten minutes, and finish with shimmery mica powder and crystal gems. Note: gilding paste cannot be left unsealed, as it is an adhesive and will be very sticky to the touch even when dry.

Becoming Moonlight® Gilding Kits contain enough gilding paste, glitter, mica powder, and gems to easily complete several eggs. You could also use it for its original intent, which is to create sparkly designs on the skin which can last for several days. Paste, glitter, mica, and gems can also be purchased individually here.

This egg was dyed solid blue with indigo, then decorated with Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste, powder, and glitter.

False Resist with Henna Paste

Another way to achieve a similar result as a wax resist is to dye the entire egg with Ancient Blue® indigo, then apply designs in henna after the dye has dried. I discovered this through experimentation, expecting the henna to deposit additional dye over the deep blue color. Instead, the indigo dye detached from the eggshell where the henna was applied, leaving the original white. This is because Ancient Blue® indigo vat is alkaline, as is the calcium in the eggshell, and henna paste, which is made with lemon juice, is acidic. I confirmed this hypothesis by rubbing an indigo-dyed egg with regular vinegar and saw that the blue dye was removed.

A “false resist” created by applying henna paste over an egg dyed with Ancient Blue®.

I found that I could also apply wax designs to an indigo-dyed egg, then rub it with vinegar until only the dye protected by the wax remained. This resulted in a design opposite to a regular wax resist wherein the majority of the egg is white except for where the wax was applied.

Wax was applied over indigo and then the remaining dye was removed with vinegar.

Some excess indigo dye transferred onto the shell during wax removal, coloring the shell a light blue. I didn’t mind this; it looked quite pretty this way. I then began filling in spaces with Pros-Aide liquid® and Becoming Moonlight® mica powder for a stained-glass effect. Like Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste, Pros-Aide® liquid is an adhesive that dries tacky and is then coated with a powder or glitter. The liquid can be applied to a brush and it dries flat. Unfortunately, I dropped this egg before I was able to complete it.

Reverse-resist egg with stained glass pattern.

Temptu® Dura Temporary Tattoo Paints and Mehron® Powders

Mehandi also supplies body art products such as paints and powders. Temptu®DuraS paints are acrylic-based and water resistant, making them great for egg-decorating. I decorated one egg entirely with Temptu® Dura body paints in the style of a traditional pysanky wax-resist egg. Because Temptu® leaves a tacky surface when dry, I dusted the egg with baby powder between applications to make it easier to handle and to prevent fingerprints. When the powder had set, I rubbed off the excess with a soft cloth and continued painting. Find Temptu® Dura paints here at Mehandi.com.

Pysanky-style egg decorated entirely with Temptu® Dura Temporary Tattoo Body Paint.

Mehron® metallic powders and precious gems powders are ultra-fine and intensely pigmented. The metallic powders create a gorgeous flat shine and the precious gems powders come in a variety of shimmering colors. They can be mixed with Mehron® mixing liquid and applied with a paintbrush, or dusted over Temptu® paints and Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste. I decorated an egg in the drop-pull style using Mehron® powders. I first painted the entire surface of the egg with Temptu® Dura in white, then buffed it with silver Mehron® powder. I then applied Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste mimicking the drop-pull wax-resist style and dusted the pattern with Mehron® precious gems powders. I then finished it with Becoming Moonlight®gems. Mehron® products can be found here.

Egg in drop-pull style with Mehron® powders.

Final Notes

Before beginning your project, be sure to wash your hands so they are free of oils or dirt which may transfer to the eggshell and cause uneven dye results. It also helps to rub the eggs clean with vinegar. You can plan out your design by drawing on the egg very lightly with a pencil, but do not use the eraser. To remove unwanted pencil marks, rub them with a cotton swab dipped in vinegar.

It is helpful to use rubber bands and circular stencils to guide your pencil marks for straight, symmetrical lines. Ground your wrists on a stable surface when decorating to help prevent mistakes. I found that keeping the egg nestled in a soft cloth, or on a plastic ring (such as one from a milk bottle) was also useful to prevent excess movement.

Be patient and allow each layer of wax, dye, or body art product to dry fully before continuing. You will not want to ruin one side of the egg by continuing onto the other side too hastily. Wash your hands often to keep your egg clean as you handle it.

Wax-resist eggs, especially if they are hollow, can last virtually forever due to the thin wax coating left behind when it is finished. As long as the shell is not cracked, the egg inside should not rot. If the egg is hollow, it will definitely last. Many traditional eggs have lasted for decades, kept within one home or passed down through generations. Be sure to store and move them with extra care, as they will crack if dropped. For extra protection, I preserved all of my eggs by spraying them with a clear gloss sealant that can be found at any craft store.

If you have Becoming Moonlight® body art products at home or are interested in putting a new spin on your egg-decorating this Easter, feel free to try any or all of these techniques! None of the Becoming Moonlight® body art products are toxic, nor will they permeate through the shell, but I do not recommend eating your decorated eggs. These products are not graded for food safety. Keep your eggs for seasonal display for years to come. They will be sure to stand out in your home and celebrations. Comment below with your egg creations, or if you have any questions about the products and methods

How To: Celtic Style Designs in Temptu® Body Paint and Becoming Moonlight® Gilding Powder.

History tells of Celtic warriors painting themselves blue before battle. We see these images on the screen in such as Braveheart and King Arthur. In the television show, American Gods, based on the book by Neil Gaiman, the character Mad Sweeney appears with shining blue streaks across his face and chest– clearly a brighter, more stylistic homage to the traditional body art called woading.



Mad Sweeney appears with blue markings in this short video shared on Twitter.

Woad was made from the isatis tinctoria plant, a relative of the indigofera tinctoria that is used to dye fabrics and to create vashma, which is used in the hair in conjunction with henna. Both plants create indigo dye which stains the skin when prepared into a vat. Painting the skin with an isatis tinctoria woad vat involves a rather tedious and odoriferous process. Becoming Moonlight® has developed a product called Ancient Blue® made from the indigofera tinctoria plant, which is much better suited for today’s body artists. To learn more about the history and use of traditional woad, visit these books on The Henna Page. To Purchase Ancient Blue® Indigo crystals, click here.


Learn the history of woading and Ancient Blue® technique here.

For those who wish to recreate the woad look with a glowing shimmer, another technique works stunningly well. By creating a design with Temptu® Dura body paint and dusting it with a shimmery blue Becoming Moonlight® Gilding Powder, an artist can create Celtic designs in with a contemporary twist. Temptu® Dura body paint has been widely used by professionals to simulate tattoos because of its opacity, high pigmentation, and staying power. The paint is water-resistant and dries slightly tacky. It is normally dusted with a translucent powder to seal the design and to make it appear more like a true tattoo. By replacing the translucent powder with a pigmented mica powder, an artist can achieve a long-lasting glowing effect that really grabs the eye. The design can last up to a week with careful maintenance.


Body art by Alexander Limbach; inspired by patterns by Alex Morgan.

Shimmery, water-resistant designs would be great for a festival or faire, to show your Celtic pride, or simply to add a little sparkle and beauty to your everyday life. Remove the design with isopropyl alcohol or mineral oil. For free patterns and inspiration, click here.

To learn the technique, watch the video below.

Mehandi Employees’ Favorite Products

 

One of the great things about working for Mehandi is that we, as employees, really do love the products. We use them at home every day. Nearly all of us use Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair products to dye and/or condition our hair. We use Ancient Sunrise® hair care and body care products in our daily routines. Many of us use Becoming Moonlight® body art products. Several Mehandi employees are licensed cosmetologists and/or body artists who use the products professionally. We also love to recommend products to our friends and family, and sometimes to complete strangers. Anyone who has used Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair long enough knows how common it is to be stopped in public by people admiring their hair. We’ll even keep business cards on hand for this very reason.

 I had been using Ancient Sunrise® Henna for Hair for several years before I began working for the company. My enthusiasm for the products was one of the reasons I decided to apply. When I was a Customer Service representative, I loved that could recommend products I genuinely believed in. I never felt like I was pressured to “get a sale” or to talk up a product that I didn’t feel was great. It was more like I was getting paid to teach people about an awesome part of my own life. Now, I continue to do so through the blogs.

 I asked my coworkers to list their favorite products from Mehandi.com and to explain why they love them. This article features our responses. It was interesting to see how our top picks differed depending on our own hair, skin, and professional needs.

 Click on the names of the products to find them at Mehandi.com. We hope you fall in love with them, too!

 

 

Rebecca

Writer for AncientSunrise.Blog and BecomingMoonlight.Blog

Body Artist

 

 

Ancient Sunrise® Zizyphus and Juniper Shampoo Bar. This has been my go-to shampoo bar for a couple of years. It cleanses well and leaves my hair clean and conditioned without feeling too heavy. I love that one bar lasts for several months.

Ancient Sunrise® Amla Powder. I use it as a face mask about once a week. It helps to fight my acne, and exfoliate away dry skin. My skin looks more awake and feels smooth after I use an amla mask.

(To learn how to use amla as a skin treatment, click here)

Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash Mineral Treatment. It never fails to perk my hair up. I use it before henna treatments and whenever my hair feels a little unmanageable and dull. It makes my hair soft again.

Becoming Moonlight® Gilding Paste. It is easy to use, creates beautifully fine lines for intricate designs, and I love that I can use a variety of colors and finishes over it for a wide range of looks.

Becoming Moonlight® Gilding Powder in Bridal Gold. The color is just gorgeous. It's one of my favorites to use when doing body art, and it compliments a variety of skin tones beautifully. Also works well as a subtle highlighting powder or eyeshadow. All of the gilding powders are extremely fine, so they are easy to use and a little goes a long way.

 

 

 

Liz

Customer Service Representative

Shipping Department

 

Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash Mineral Treatment. Makes my hair soft and more manageable.

Ancient Sunrise® Vetiver Shaving Soap. I love shaving my legs with the shaving soap. My legs are smooth and moisturized. I like that they have no artificial fragrance in them.

Ancient Sunrise® Amla Shampoo Bar. It removes the oils on my hair leaving it looking great. ​​ I don't need to use as much conditioner now. You can also use it as an exfoliating body bar.

Ancient Sunrise® Mango Seed Butter. I use this year product year round, it keeps my feet and hands from cracking. The butter absorbs quickly into the skin, without feeling greasy. I like that the scent is not overpowering.

Ancient Sunrise® Nettle, Comfrey, and Peppermint Shampoo Bar. My boyfriend Pete, loves this shampoo bar! This is the only dandruff shampoo that works for him.

 

 

Maria

Licensed Cosmetologist

Customer Service Supervisor

Ancient Sunrise Educator

Social Media Coordinator

 

 

Ancient Sunrise® Rainwash Mineral Treatment is gentle enough for my kid with sensitive skin to use. It makes a great alternative to a clarifying shampoo!

Ancient Sunrise® Rajasthani Twilight Henna and Ancient Sunrise® Zekhara Indigo are so easy to use and great for the hair. I've never seen hair look so good after being colored! The fact that fading doesn't occur is a huge bonus!

The Mehron “Paradise” 30-Color Pallet allows my creativity to be limitless! I can take it with me anywhere and use it for the simplest design or use it for something complex. This is a must have for anyone who has an artistic bone in their body.

Becoming Moonlight Glitters are rad. I love these because I can get a variety of shades of shine to suit my mood. My current fave is Garnet.

 

I honestly could go on and on with my favorite products we carry. ​​ I love all the things!

 

 

 

Alex

Shop Supervisor for The Empire of Magical Thought

Body Artist

 

Ancient Sunrise® Zizyphus Spina Christi Powder. It makes my hair more manageable and reduces the amount of random flyaway hairs, it's easy to use and in general just makes my hair look better.

(To learn more about Zizyphus, click here.)

Becoming Moonlight® Gilding Powder as eyeshadow. The range of colors is amazing and I never fail to get compliments on my eye makeup when I use them.

Becoming Moonlight® Gilding Paste. It is great for extremely detailed work, it can be applied pretty much anywhere (given common sense) the mica and glitter colors are amazing, and I like that there is the choice between mica and glitter to suit the kind of design you are going for.

(To learn about how to use Becoming Moonlight® Gilding Paste, read this article and visit www.becomingmoonlight.com)

​​ 

Feel free to comment below to let us know your favorite Mehandi products! If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to contact Customer Service at www.Mehandi.com.

Henna is Not Black: Stopping the Illegal Use of Para-phenylenediamine (PPD) on Skin

 

It happens every summer. As soon as school lets out and families go on vacation, a handful of news reports go viral about a vacationer getting a “black henna” tattoo and ending up in the hospital. Too often, they are children. Severe reactions to “black henna” can result in painful, weeping blisters, permanent scarring, and a multitude of other symptoms. In some cases, a reaction may be life-threatening.

 

 

This image was from a viral news report in 2017.

 

 

 Without proper public awareness, and without an effort on the part of the local law enforcement to stop the use of “black henna” in tourist destinations, these occurrences continue. “Black henna” is not henna. Too often, the news stories conflate the two, leaving readers to believe that henna is the culprit. While black henna mixtures may sometimes include some true henna, the active ingredient is a high concentration of para-phenylenediamine, or PPD. This highly sensitizing compound is used at a lower concentration in commercial hair dyes, where it is legal. In the United States, hair dyes can contain up to 6% PPD. However, any use of PPD directly on the skin is illegal. ​​ Chances of sensitization and reaction increase with the concentration of the product, as well as frequency of exposure. Because “black henna” involves the application of 25% PPD or higher directly onto the skin, there is a very high likelihood of becoming sensitized, even after a single application.

 For every story that hits the news, there are likely dozens that go unmentioned. And for every person who experiences a severe reaction to “black henna,” there are even more who become sensitized without any initial reaction. About 50% of people who get a “black henna” tattoo become sensitized to PPD. Of those people about 40% of them will have a future reaction severe enough to need hospital care [1,2]. Too often, a person seeking medical care for a reaction to hair dye is found to have had a “black henna” tattoo in the past [3]. To learn more about PPD, read the article, What You Need to Know about Para-Phenylenediamine (PPD) and visit The Henna Page.

 

 

 

 

Photographs of black henna injuries on children from Florida Department of Health. Photo source: Florida Department of Heath, Bureau of Environmental Health, Division of Disease Control and Health Protection. “Black Henna.” Florida Department of Heath. http://www.myfloridaeh.com/community/Black_Henna/index.htm

 

 

This article will explore the difficulties in detecting and stopping “black henna” use, and explain what steps a person can take if they believe someone is using “black henna.” If you have recently had a “black henna” tattoo applied and are experiencing a reaction, please seek immediate medical care, and also schedule an appointment with an allergist. It will be important to determine whether your PPD sensitization has led to cross-sensitization to other substances, in order to avoid future reactions.

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The Spread of “Black Henna”

 While traditional henna has been used to decorate the skin for 6,000 years, “black henna” is relatively new. In the 1970s, people in East African countries began adding concentrated hair dye to their henna, or using it to replace henna altogether. Whereas a traditional henna requires keeping the paste on the skin for several hours, and results in a deep red to coffee brown stain, PPD stains the skin jet black within an hour. The result looks very similar to a real tattoo, and the dark stain was more visible on darker skin tones.

 The practice first spread within regions where henna has been traditionally used, and then moved out to the western tourist markets. Concentrated PPD is cheap and easy to obtain, in the forms of powdered black hair dyes and “henna stone.” Often advertised as a natural product harvested from the banks of the Nile river, “henna stone” is neither henna, nor natural. It is a chunk of industrial-grade, ​​ PPD at an extremely high concentration.

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Peacock brand, often referred to as “piku,” is commonly used to create “black henna” paste. It has about 50% PPD. Because the product comes in a powder form, concentration can be higher depending on how little liquid is used to dilute.

 

 

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Often referred to as “henna stone” this is a chunk of industrial grade PPD, at up to 90% concentration.

 

 

 “Black henna” was offered in tourist areas in Northern Africa, South Asia, and the Middle East, before it jumped to Europe and North America with the help of pop culture and music. ​​ In 1998, “black henna” gained a boost in popularity when Madonna appeared in a music video wearing it on her hands. Now, it is widely available around beaches, resorts, amusement parks, malls, and festivals. It is especially popular with children and young adults because it mimics the looks of a “real” tattoo. About 25% of UK school-aged children report having gotten a “black henna” tattoo while on holiday [4].

 

 

 

 

This map shows the areas where “black henna” is offered to tourists, and the home countries of tourists who travel to those locations for vacation.

 

 

Catching “Black Henna” Artists

If using PPD on the skin is illegal, why is it still happening? Concentrated forms of PPD hair dye are cheap and easy to obtain. There have been cases of vendors selling “black henna” kits to people looking to make extra money in tourist areas. Applying “black henna” takes very little skill, especially when stencils can be used, and can be quite lucrative. Some artists may not know that their materials are harmful.

 Those who offer “black henna” to vacationers often move around, setting up a stall in one location, then packing up and moving elsewhere. An artist can easily operate with just a small kit, a stool, and a sign. PPD exposure often results in a delayed hypersensitivity reaction, which does not occur for 3-30 days after application. By this time, the customer may be home from their vacation, and the “black henna” artist is nowhere to be found.

 

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A “black henna” artist applying a design on a beach. Photo source: Amber Yarbrough. My Life as an Expat. Tuesday, August 28, 2012 http://amberslifeinjakarta.blogspot.com/2012/08/bali-part-one-1.html

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 Additionally, it is difficult to prove that an artist is using PPD. Many artists use packages without ingredients labels, storing their dye powder in small bags or bottles. They may claim that they are simply using black paint, the ink from black magic markers, or some other lie. Authorities need to be able to test a sample of the substance to determine whether or not it contains PPD. Finally, local authorities simply do not allot enough time and resources to catching people who offer “black henna.”

 

Taking Action

 PPD sensitization is a serious problem. If you suspect that a body artist is using “black henna,” please take the following steps. Doing so will help stop the spread of PPD sensitization by making it harder for “black henna” artists to go unchecked. If an illegal vendor knows that people are spotting and reporting “black henna” users, they will be more hesitant to set up shop.

 

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A “black henna” booth.

Photo source: cyncymc, comment “Have a Henna Tattoo” posted to Tattoo in Borocay Island, Philippines March 8, 2010 ​​ http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel/Asia/Philippines/Province_of_Aklan/Boracay_Island-1407255/Things_To_Do-Boracay_Island-Tattoos-BR-1.html

 

 

Recognizing “Black Henna”

True henna is a paste, often applied with a cone or a needle-tip bottle, and sometimes a brush or stick. It is a dark green or brown color, and often smells of plant matter and essential oils. It smells “good.” Its initial stain is a deep orange color, which darkens over 24-48 hours. You may see orange to coffee-brown stains on the artist’s hands. If the artist makes their own paste and cones, the cones will usually be made of a plain or patterned cellophane wrap, like those in craft stores.

 “Black henna” is a dark gray or jet-black liquid, applied with a needle-tip bottle, or a brush. Look for bottles of grayish powder. There may also be bottles of peroxide for mixing. This liquid has very little scent. The stain is immediately black. You may see black stains on the artist’s hands. “Black henna” must be mixed fresh and used within about an hour, so you may see bowls or containers for mixing, or you may actually see an artist stir together a gray powder with water or peroxide.

 

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Mixing “black henna.” The small, brown bottles are consistent with those in powdered hair dyes. Photo source: Peta Rasdien, “Bali black henna health alert” The West Australian. September 4, 2013.

 

 

 Some pre-made henna cones contain PPD. Even if they don’t, they likely contain a cocktail of ingredients that are not safe for the skin. These cones have printed labels with brand names and images. ​​ They do not always include a list of ingredients.

 

 

These manufactured “henna” cones are easily available through the internet, despite laws preventing their sale.

 

To learn more about the differences between true henna, pre-made henna cones, and “black henna,” read this article.

 

Reporting “Black Henna”

If you believe that someone is using “black henna,” gather as much information as you can. It is not recommended to confront the person. Take photos of the stand, materials, and the artist. If possible, get a photo of the artist’s face, while they are in the act of applying ​​ “black henna” to a client. Ask if they have a business card. Take note of the exact location where you found them. If at all possible, obtain a sample of their materials. Contact the local health department and provide them with all of the information you have gathered. It is likely that the artist is operating without a license, so even if the authorities do not manage to prove the existence of PPD in their materials, they can prevent the artist from continuing.

 If you are at a festival, contact the organizers of the event, as well. If it is at a hotel, amusement park, or other business, contact the owners. Businesses and events can be hit with fines, penalties, or even legal action if they are caught offering “black henna,” and they are aware of this. Most businesses will take reports of “black henna” use seriously.

 

Spreading Awareness

“Black henna” artists will continue as long as there are customers. Too many people are unaware of the dangers of PPD. They do not understand that while true henna is safe, “black henna” is not. While many have heard about injuries from “black henna” through the news reports, some still believe that the likelihood of suffering a reaction is low. This “it won’t happen to me” attitude is exactly what perpetuates the demand for “black henna” in tourist spaces.

 It is important that local communities spread awareness about the truth. Some communities will put up signs, or hand out pamphlets. Here is an informational pamphlet that you are free to use. Print it out to take to festivals, or local areas where you suspect “black henna” may be used.

 

Click Here to Download the Printable “Black Henna” Pamphlet

“Black Henna” Use in Traditional Henna Cultures

This article has mainly focused on the use of “black henna” on western tourists. It is important to acknowledge that it also widely used in cultures where natural henna was traditionally used. Too often, people are ordering materials online or going to their local shops for pre-made henna cones and black hair dye, rather than mixing their own natural henna paste.

 Because henna is used for holidays, celebrations, and weddings, as well as an everyday cosmetic, the people of those cultures have a higher chance of repeated exposure to “black henna.” In fact, the rates of PPD sensitization in African, Middle Eastern, and South Asian countries are often higher than those of North America and Europe. It may be more difficult to stop because the use is often within homes, among family and friends, rather than as a business. A deep sense of culture and tradition may make people more defensive of their use of “black henna.” But remember: “black henna” is only a few decades old, and true henna is an option that has existed long before PPD entered the market.

 

 

This map shows where henna was traditionally used. Many of these areas now use “black henna” as well.

 

 

 If you feel that members of your community are using “black henna,” decide whether you feel comfortable approaching them about it. Try to suggest natural henna instead. Common responses may be that traditional henna is too time-consuming, too expensive, or not dark enough. Many people will claim that they have used “black henna” for years, and have never had a problem. If possible, try to convey the facts about the likelihood of sensitization, and the severity of potential reactions. Feel free to refer them to this blog, and to the resources here.

 

Final Notes

The consequences of “black henna” stay with people for life. Once sensitized, a person will experience a reaction each time they come in contact with PPD. ​​ Often, these reactions worsen with each exposure. PPD is commonly found in hair dyes. It is also used in fur and fabric dyeing, rubber manufacturing, and in printing. PPD sensitization can lead to cross-reactions with numerous related compounds, such as PABA, found in sunscreens. Others include those found in synthetic fragrances, anesthetics, and even food dyes. This means that one “black henna” tattoo can lead to a lifetime of continual allergy problems.

 Currently, the rate of PPD sensitization is growing, with an estimated 16% of western adults expected to have a PPD allergy by 2030. Putting an end to the illegal use of PPD on skin will prevent tens of thousands of future injuries by preventing initial sensitization. If you see “black henna” being used, please do not hesitate to act.

 

 

 

References

[1] Kligman, Albert M. "The identification of contact allergens by human assay: III. The maximization test: A procedure for screening and rating contact sensitizers." Journal of Investigative Dermatology 47, no. 5 (1966): 393-409.

 

[2] Smith, Vanessa M., Sheila M. Clark, and Mark Wilkinson. "Allergic contact dermatitis in children: trends in allergens, 10 years on. A retrospective study of 500 children tested between 2005 and 2014 in one UK centre." Contact dermatitis 74, no. 1 (2016): 37-43.

 

[3] Søsted, H., T. Agner, Klaus Ejner Andersen, and T. Menné. "55 cases of allergic reactions to hair dye: a descriptive, consumer complaint‐based study." Contact Dermatitis 47, no. 5 (2002): 299-303.

 

[4] Cartwright-Jones, Catherine. “‘BLACK HENNA’ AND THE EPIDEMIC OF PARA-PHENYLENEDIAMINE SENSITIZATION: Demographics of Extreme Allergic Reactions to Oxidative Hair Dye.” Lecture. The Society of Cosmetic Chemists’ 70th Annual Scientific Meeting

New York, New York, December 10, 2015. See http://www.hennapage.com/henna/ccj/SCCPPD12_7-15.pdf

 

Becoming Moonlight® Gilding for Body Artists: How to Expand your Business by Offering “White Henna” and “Glitter Henna”

 

 

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Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste, used in combination with Becoming Moonlight® gilding powders and glitters, is a beautiful and versatile alternative to traditional henna. “White henna,” and “glitter henna” are becoming increasingly popular. These designs look especially stunning when the wearer is out in the sun, where the designs catch the light. They contrast beautifully with tanned skin. Spring and summer are great times for offering Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste designs. Becoming Moonlight® is available exclusively at www.mehandi.com.

 If you would like to learn more about the product itself, read “White Henna” and Becoming Moonlight® Gilding Paste, and see the product here.

 If you are a body artist interested in offering Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste, here are a few tips to ensure success with this new medium.

 

Play with the materials before you begin to use them on customers.

If you are familiar with using traditional henna paste in a cone, Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste has a very similar feel. It was developed specifically with body artists in mind. That being said, it is always a good idea to practice with new materials before using them on clients. Most of the artists I've talked to who were not happy with the product did not take enough time to play around with it before offering it to customers. Don’t assume that it will work just like henna. It is similar, but has its own personality. Check this blog, as well as www.becomingmoonlight.com for tips, tutorials, videos, and patterns. If you are completely new to this product, check out the Introduction to ‘White Henna.’

 

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 Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste feels a little different from regular henna, and there are some things that one can do that the other cannot. Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste does well with fine lines, but large, solid shapes do not work as well. Like with traditional henna, the tip of the cone may clog from time to time due to product drying there. Keep alcohol swaps on hand to keep the tip clear and the paste flowing easily. Unlike traditional henna, Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste works best if the tip of the cone is gently touching the skin rather than floating above it.

 After practicing with the gilding paste you may find that you develop a style that is different from the one you use when applying traditional henna. I’ve found that gilding is great for soft, lace-like styles, and floral themes.

 Remember that the design must be sealed. The paste itself is only the first step. It is an adhesive, not a body paint. Once the paste has become firm to the touch, the surface will be tacky. Finish the design with Becoming Moonlight® gilding powders, body art quality glitters, and gems. This second step is not optional. Even if you want to keep the design white, you must apply a white powder over top of it.

 Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste can be used alongside other body art media. It looks great as a highlight on traditional henna stains and works well with Temptu paint and Pros-Aide liquid. The wonderful thing about Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste is that it remains opaque and raised, and can be set with any color powder or glitter. Don’t limit yourself to white; try metallics, bright colors, and rainbow effects!

 

 

Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste and gilding powders, used in conjunction with Temptu white body paint, create a unique lace effect. Body artist: Rebecca Chou. Photography by Roy Jones. Graphic montage by Alex Morgan.

 

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Wear it on yourself to advertise.

Becoming Moonlight® gilding is very eye-catching. It looks like henna, but it’s sparkly and colorful. I have had numerous people stop me and even take pictures of my body art when I wear it out and about. It is a gorgeous, modern twist on traditional henna body art, and that’s why it is becoming so popular.

 While you’re working the fairs and festivals, and any other time you like, wear gilding paste on your arms or legs, and keep your business cards on hand. Be sure you feel comfortable answering questions about the product, like how it works and how long it lasts.

 

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Gilding looks absolutely stunning on darker skin tones. Body Artist: Wendy Rover. Photography by Roy Jones. Graphic Montage by Alex Morgan. Words by Gwyneddh Jones

 

 

Make sure the customer understands the difference between Becoming Moonlight® gilding and traditional henna.

Traditional henna is applied to the skin and left on for several hours to allow the paste to stain the skin. The resulting design comes from the lawsone molecules that have migrated into the skin’s outer layers. With Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste, the paste itself is the design. It does not stain the skin. When the paste is removed, the design is gone. However, the paste is flexible and water resistant, allowing it to last for up to a week with proper care. Make sure your customer knows exactly what they are getting before you start.

 One of the great things about using Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste is that once you have set the design with powders and/or glitters, it is done. Customers don’t have to worry about wrapping their body art or moving carefully to avoid smudging. It is great for people who can’t have a stain on their skin for work or school. They can simply peel it off or rub it away with baby oil. This works well for kids whose parents don’t want something that will stain their child’s skin. I used to bring my body art supplies into the after-school program where I worked, and it was a huge hit. However, younger kids will have a tendency to pick at their designs within minutes of getting them done.

 

 

Remember to ask customers whether they are sensitive to adhesives.

Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste is developed from a medical adhesive. It is non-toxic, skin-safe, and is latex-free. That being said, those who are sensitive to adhesives, such as those on bandages or medical tape, may want to avoid using Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste. Ask your customer if they are sensitive to adhesives before starting.

 

 

Know that Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste does not comply with wudu for Muslim clients.

People of Islamic faith practice ablution, or ritual cleansing. They may do this several times a day, usually prior to prayer. This requires that the water freely and fully reaches the skin on the hands, feet, and face. While traditional henna is acceptable, as it is a stain, Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste covers the surface of the skin and is water-resistant. Be sure that your client understands this. You may want to suggest that they have their design placed on their upper arms, above the elbow, or on their legs, above the ankle. Luckily, these areas of the body work better for Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste, anyway. Read the next section to find out why.

 Know that religious practices differ, and that some may follow wudu more strictly or loosely. Remember to be respectful in the way you discuss this, and allow the client to make the final decision for themselves.

 Additionally, ask if it is okay to use alcohol to clean the area prior to applying the design. Skin needs to be clean, dry, and free of oils in order for the gilding paste to adhere well. If you believe you will have clients who cannot have alcohol on their skin, keep other alternatives such as soap and water available.

 

 

Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste works best on flat areas where there is little joint movement and stretching.

 The best areas to use Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste are often the opposites of the ones where you would use henna. Sure, it looks gorgeous on the hands, but all that bending and stretching will cause the design to come off more quickly. Make sure your customer is aware of this when deciding on placement. Hand designs are good for one-day events, like weddings or parties.

 Becoming Moonlight® works beautifully on the chest, torso, back, and upper arms and legs. Use this to your advantage to create new and interesting designs for body parts you might not usually work with. You can find tons of inspiration on The Henna Page, and BecomingMoonlight.com.

 

 

 

Use Becoming Moonlight® body art products to make a beautiful belly design. Body artist: Alexander Limbach. Photography by Roy Jones. Graphic Montage by Alex Morgan.

 

 

 It is also important to be aware that the paste is more difficult to apply and remove from hairy skin. Hair will interrupt the flow of the paste, causing uneven lines. Because the paste is an adhesive, removing it from hair skin can be painful, and pull out hairs. Have client shave their arms or legs prior to a private appointment. At a festival or fair setting, politely suggest a different placement, such as on the inner arm, the upper arm or the upper back.

 

 

The image on the left shows areas where henna stains well. The image on the right shows areas where gilding works best.

 

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Figure out how you will manage the flow of clients if you are working a stand.

If you are offering Becoming Moonlight® gilding at a stand or booth, you will need to figure out the best way to keep your clients moving through smoothly. Decide whether you want to offer both traditional henna and Becoming Moonlight® gilding, or only the latter.

 The paste needs to set for about 5-10 minutes before you are able to seal it with powder or glitter. If it is particularly humid out, the paste will take longer to dry. This means there will be customers waiting around between the first step and the second. If the event is slow, you can simply hang out and chat. If there is a line, you may want to have a partner seal the designs after you have done them, and have a space where customers can wait off to the side. Make sure that the customers don’t run off after the first step, thinking it is done. This will happen. Maintain a clear system for cycling customers through your stand in a timely manner.

 

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Decide on pricing.

By weight, Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste is pricier than homemade BAQ henna paste. In addition, you will need to have a few gilding powders, glitters, and perhaps gems. (If you offer body art as a business, contact Customer Service about getting a 25% body artist discount on Becoming Moonlight® body art products.)

 You may want to charge more to make up for the cost of materials, and because it is something unique and different in comparison to traditional henna. On the other hand, many customers are unfamiliar with gilding and are deterred by its shorter duration. Pricing will depend on region and client demographics, as well as your personal business sense. Advertising is important. Make sure you have several lovely images of your gilding work where they can easily be seen, to draw in customers.

 

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Start by offering a few simple patterns and a limited color selection.

Part of maintaining a seamless flow is not overwhelming yourself and the customers with too many options. Have a pattern book ready with around a dozen designs which you can complete in ten minutes or less. Offer a few powders or glitter colors to choose from. It works well to offer white, gold, and silver, as those will be the most popular. Decide if you want to offer gems as well, and whether you will charge extra for it.

 If you are doing a private appointment, have more options available and consult with your client beforehand to decide on a color palette. Remember that glitters and powders can look different in the jar than when on the skin. Doing a test run of the design, or creating color swatches can be helpful. ​​ 

 

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Becoming Moonlight® gilding powders are cosmetic-grade mica powders. They come in a wide variety of colors. ​​ Find the whole selection here.

 

 

Make sure your customers know about proper aftercare.

Your customers will want to be careful when washing and drying the area where you have placed the design. The product is water resistant, but will be a little softer and prone to peeling when the skin is wet. They will want to avoid harsh rubbing, and only use gentle patting motions when washing and drying. They will also want to avoid using oils, lotions, and alcohol-based hand-sanitizers on the area.

 The design may peel more quickly for those who sweat and move a lot when sleeping. I find that dusting the design with more gilding powder, or a talc-free body powder before bedtime helps keep it dry and intact. If you do a large design for a special event, you may want to consider leaving them with a small sample of the powder you used, which they can reapply to keep the design fresh.

 

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This design stayed impressively long for being on my foot. I dusted it with more powder every night to protect it while I slept. This is about five days after application. You can see where some areas are peeling. On another part of the body, the design would stay even cleaner.

 

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When applying gilding for special events, it is best to do it close to the time of the event.

Becoming Moonlight® gilding lasts for up to a week with proper aftercare, but it will always look its best when it is fresh. After a few days, the surface can become slightly tacky, and pick up bits of dirt and lint, dulling the colors. Some parts of the design may lift, and begin to peel. You can avoid this wear-and-tear, and prolong the beauty of the design by dusting it with powder or glitter daily.

 If someone has hired you to apply Becoming Moonlight® gilding paste for a wedding, party, or another special event, it is best if they are able to have the appointment the same day as the event. This will ensure that the body art looks its best, and gives it less time to dull or peel. Make sure you feel comfortable doing large designs, know roughly how long it will take you to complete it, and allow time for mishaps.

 

 

Create a stunning collar piece to match an outfit for a special day. Use gems and ribbon to make the piece stand out even more. Body Artist: Alexander Limbach. Photography by Roy Jones. Graphic montage by Alex Morgan.

 

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Final Notes

Becoming Moonlight® gilding is a wonderful addition to any body artist’s repertoire. As white and metallic henna-style body art gains popularity, it benefits you to be able to offer it. It is especially good for weddings and proms, and it is in high demand during the summer months. Make sure you are familiar with the product, and have a plan set for how you will offer it in your own business. Offering Becoming Moonlight® gilding will set you apart from other body artists and is sure to bring repeat customers.

 If you have any questions, don’t hesitate to comment below or contact customer service at www.mehandi.com.

 

 

 

 

 

Henna for Body Art 101: How to Sift and Strain Henna for Smooth, Clog-free Paste

 

Chunky henna paste easily puts a damper on a good henna session. It stops an artist from getting into their rhythm, and can ruin a pattern with broken lines or unexpected paste eruptions. An artist may try to clip a larger opening at the tip of their cone, sacrificing lovely thin lines and minute details. Smooth, clog-free paste makes all the difference. To avoid henna mishaps, it is best to be proactive by sifting henna powder and/or straining paste before it goes into your cones. Luckily, both are quite easy and quick to do, if only a little bit messy.

 

Why does henna need to be sifted or strained?

Henna powder varies greatly in quality. Depending on the manufacturer, it will be ground and sifted to one degree or another. Henna that is sold for hair sometimes contains larger plant particles. Low quality henna may also contain sand and other debris. Cheap henna powder may seem like a good way to save money, but it will cause more headaches in the long run. After sifting and straining, you’ll find that you have lost a good fraction of your product.

 It is best to start with a high-quality body art henna powder which has been finely ground and already sifted to a high degree. You can choose to sift it again if you wish, but will find that there is very little that is left behind, in comparison to a lower quality powder. High quality powder will not contain sand, stems, and leaves. Sifting may be helpful to prevent clumps when mixing, but clumps tend to smooth out after dye-release, anyways.

 

 

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I rarely ever sift my henna, but I do strain the paste after it has been mixed and dye-released. Straining henna paste alters its consistency by breaking apart and/or removing larger plant particulates. This leaves the paste with a smoother consistency. Straining is also helpful if you used fresh-squeezed juice, and some pulp made its way into the paste. If you prefer to use very thin lines and intricate details in your henna patterns, you will need paste that can squeeze through a very fine tip without interruption.

 If you find yourself in possession of chunky powder, or if you simply want to be 100% positive that your paste will flow smoothly, sifting and/or straining can make a huge difference.

 

How To Sift Dry Henna Powder

To sift dry henna powder, you’ll need a tall, plastic container with a lid, a pair of nylon stockings, and a handful of coins (or other small, heavy objects).

Layer one stocking inside of the other.

Put the toe in the container and stretch the stockings over the opening, like lining a trash can.

Put your henna powder in the stockings, and drop your coins in.

Make sure your lid fits tightly. If not, henna powder will get all over the place.

Shake your sifter while holding the lid on firmly. The finely sifted powder will end up in the container, and the remaining chunks and debris will stay in the stockings.

 

 

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To see a step-by-step with images, click here.

 

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How To Strain Henna Paste

You can also use a nylon stocking to strain your henna paste once it is made. A second option is to use a fine mesh strainer or sieve. I prefer the latter, as using a stocking can be difficult, depending on the elasticity and thickness of a stocking. If a stocking is made with a lot of spandex, you will be pulling forever. If it is a thicker weave, too much of the plant matter will remain inside the stocking, and the resulting paste will be too thin. Both methods will work well, and are a matter of personal preference.

 

How to strain henna paste with a stocking, directly into a carrot bag.

Make sure to wear gloves while doing this, as it will be messy.

Use a sheer, nylon stocking (but not “tights”! Tights are too thick). Dollar stores often sell multi-packs for cheap. If you are not using a knee-high or thigh-high, simply cut one of the legs off of a pair. You will also need a cup, carrot bag/plastic icing bag, and a rubber band, if you prefer.

Put the toe of your stocking into the cup, and stretch the remainder of the stocking over the edge of the cup, like lining a trash bag.

Scoop your henna paste into the toe of the stocking.

Pull the stocking off the cup, and transfer it into the carrot bag, so the henna is inside the bag, and the remainder of the stocking hangs outside.

Hold the opening of the carrot bag tight with one hand (use a rubber band if it helps) and pull hard on the stocking with your other hand, until the paste is extruded through the stocking and into the carrot bag.

The strained henna will be left in the carrot bag. From here, you can go straight to filling cones.

 

 

To see a step-by-step with images, click here.

 

How to strain henna paste with a fine mesh strainer or sieve

I personally find this method to be easier on the hands, less messy, and just as effective. It does take a little longer, especially if you are straining a lot of paste. Because the strained henna goes into a bowl rather than into a carrot bag, you can still adjust the consistency as needed after it is strained. I like to add my sugars and essential oils after straining, rather than before, so I can control the consistency better.

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You will need a sieve or fine-mesh strainer, a bowl, and a spoon or silicone spatula.

Place the strainer over the bowl, and spoon your dye-released henna paste into the strainer.

Press and stir until the paste moves through the strainer and into the bowl.

 

 

 

I prefer to do a few spoonfuls at a time, adding more into the strainer as it empties.

The chunky bits will remain in the strainer. If they begin to block the paste’s passage, just rinse the strainer and continue until all of your paste has been strained.

 

 

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Once you have a bowl full of silky smooth paste, you can test it for consistency. If you find it is too thin, add a little more henna powder. Strain again, if desired. If it is too thick, add a few teaspoons of liquid until it is at the right consistency.

From here, you can bag, cone, or freeze as you’d like.

 

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Here you can see the larger debris left in the strainer after it has been rinsed. There is relatively little, as the paste was made with high-quality henna powder, but these few small pieces would have caused the occasional clog.

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If you have additional questions about sifting or straining henna paste for body art, feel free to leave a comment, and/or visit www.hennapage.com.

Henna for Body Art 101: How to Achieve a Dark, Long-Lasting Stain

 

 

Henna for body art is a beautiful and safe way to adorn the skin. One of the qualities that makes henna so well-loved is its ability to stain the skin for as long as two or three weeks. This makes henna one of the few cosmetics that does not need to be reapplied daily. Henna can last through long celebrations, vacations, and special events.

 Elaborate designs, such as those applied for weddings, take several hours to apply. Naturally, one would like to achieve a dark stain, and to have the design stay on the skin for as long as possible. It can be quite disappointing or frustrating to see a beautiful pattern turn out too light, and then fade in a couple of days. Ensuring a dark, long-lasting stain begins with the placement of the design, and ends with proper aftercare. Keep reading to learn how to get the best results out of your henna.

 

 

Location Matters

Henna works best on areas of the body where there are several layers of stratum corneum, and where skin is thicker and rougher, such as on the hands and feet. The dye molecule can penetrate and bind more fully to these layers. The stain will fade slowly, as the skin is exfoliated away naturally over time.

 Areas of the body where the skin is thinner and smoother will not work as well with henna. Upper arms and legs, and the torso will see lighter stains that will fade faster. These stains will never reach the deep, espresso-brown shade one might achieve on fingertips, no matter what you do. The skin simply isn’t thick enough.

 

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Start with Dry, Clean Skin with No Oils

The skin is naturally hydrophobic, and does well to prevent many substances from entering across its barrier. The skin naturally produced sebum to protect and moisturize the skin. Oils from sebum, or from moisturizing products will prevent henna from successfully binding to the keratin in the skin.

 The day that you plan to apply henna, avoid applying lotion or other moisturizing products where you plan to have henna. Immediately before application, thoroughly wash the area with soap and water, or wipe with rubbing alcohol to create a clean, oil-free surface.

 

Use Quality Henna Paste with Terps

A good henna stain cannot happen without good henna. Mass-produced pre-made pastes contain low quality henna (or none at all), cheap solvents in place of essential oil based terps, and an assortment of concentrated food dyes. If you’ve ever gotten food coloring on your skin, you’ll see that it stains immediately, but washes away within a couple of days. This is because such dyes do not bind to keratin on a molecular level the way lawsone does.

 Pre-made pastes may also contain PPD, which can create a dark, long-lasting stain, but at great cost. (To learn more about PPD reactions, click here)

 Insist on using only hand made natural henna paste. Quality paste made from high dye-content henna and aromatherapy grade essential oils is not only safer, but more effective. However, not all essential oils are effective for darkening henna. “Terps” are essential oils nicknamed for their monoterpene alcohol content. The monoterpene alcohols are what allow for stronger dye release and a darker result on the skin. To learn more about Terps, click here.

 

Leave The Paste On As Long As Possible

With henna, patience makes all the difference. Manufacturers of mass-produced henna paste have tried to create a faster, darker product to serve customers who want immediate results. Same goes for commercial hair dyes which promise coverage in 30 minutes. In the long run, “fast and dark” often translates into “cheap,” “unsafe,” and “quick to fade.”

 If you want a beautiful, dark henna stain, go into it with the awareness that you may be spending the better part of a day with limited use of your hands, or other parts of your body. Henna has been used on brides and on women about to give birth, with the benefit of forcing the woman to sit or lie still for several hours. Elaborate, intricate henna designs were a sign of social status, because they indicated that the people who wore them could afford to not work for several hours as the paste was applied and left on.

 If you are unable to afford a day of idleness, plan to have your henna done in the evening. Wrap the design, and leave it on overnight. Henna needs to be left on the skin at least three or four hours for a good result, but some choose to leave it on as long as twelve hours or more.

 

The toes and outline of this beautiful slipper design are a dark, oxidized stain, while the light orange fill is from henna paste that was applied and then removed quickly.

 

 

Seal It

Henna doesn’t always like to stay on the skin. Sometimes, henna will dry and flake off within a couple of hours despite your best efforts not to mess with it. This will depend on the level of humidity in your area, and the henna paste formulation. If the paste is drying and flaking off too quickly, this means it will have less time to transfer dye onto the skin. There are a number of methods for sealing henna so it stays moist and in contact with the skin for as long as possible.

 Many artists use some sort of lemon-and-sugar mixture which they apply over the design once the paste is dry enough to touch. This method seems to work fairly well in keeping the design sticky and flexible. However, it may not be the best for summer days, as citrus can cause photo-sensitivity, and the mixture may be quite appealing to bees and other little winged friends.

 Strong setting hair spray is also a good trick. Get the kind that is meant to keep your hair locked in shape through hurricanes. Spritz it over the design and allow it to dry. Sprinkle glitter over top of it if you wish.

 Other options involve applying medical tape over the design, or wrapping it with a soft paper or cotton. Wrapping a design is especially handy if you need to leave it on overnight without worrying about waking up to a bed full of henna crumbs. The following section will discuss wrapping.

 

 

Heat and Moisture Help

One reason why wrapping is effective is because it keeps the design moist and warm while it is on the skin. Henna’s dye will continue to migrate into the stratum corneum as long as the paste stays mildly damp. A warm environment causes the skin to be more receptive to the dye. Be aware that the paste should stay dry enough that it is not at risk of smearing or bleeding.

 Carefully apply a good layer of toilet paper or pulled-apart cotton balls directly over the design, then wrap the whole thing with a layer of plastic, and keep it in place with tape. If the design is on the torso, lay the paper or cotton flat over the design, cover with plastic, and seal the edges down with tape. Wearing a tight-fitting shirt can help to keep the covering flat over a belly, back, or chest design.

 

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To learn more about how to wrap a henna design, click here.

 

 Medical tape works well for smaller designs. Simply apply the tape directly over the design until it is completely covered.

 If you are not able to leave the paste on for several hours, heat can help speed up the staining process. Put a heating pad on the area, or use a hair dryer on the low setting

 Once the paste is removed, heat will also help to facilitate oxidation. When henna is used on fabric, ironing the stain causes it to go dark very quickly. Hair that is dyed with henna will become darker if the person uses heated styling tools. Obviously, it would not be a good idea to press an iron to one’s skin, but exposing the skin to warm steam, a heating pad, or a nice summer day will help the stain darken.

 

 

Be Patient; The Stain Takes 24-48 Hours to Darken Fully

After the paste is removed, the henna stain continues to darken by way of oxidation. It won’t achieve its darkest state until a day or two later. The initial stain may be light orange, or even a deep red. Over time, the stain oxidizes to burgundy and coffee brown shades and darker, depending on the area of the body. Do not be disappointed if the stain you see at first is too light. In fact, you should be more concerned if a henna stain is fast and dark, as that is a strong indicator of harmful additives.

 If you are getting henna for a special event, it is best to have it done a couple of days beforehand, or at least the night before. Otherwise, the stain may still be too light during the event.

 As explained above, heat can expedite the oxidation process. Take care to only use gentle heat for short periods of time, to prevent skin damage.

 

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A henna stain just after paste removal, and the same stain after oxidation.

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Avoid Water, Chlorine, Alcohol, and Scrubbing

 It is often recommended that a person avoids having their hennaed skin make contact with water for 24 hours after the paste is removed. This prevents the dye from loosening from the skin while it is still in the process of binding. Use a wooden tongue depressor, or the blunt side of a butter knife to scrape away the paste rather than rinsing with water.

 When a henna design fades, it is due to the outer layers of the skin naturally shedding. Therefore, avoid over-washing the skin and using products that contain a high level of alcohol, like hand sanitizer. Try not to scrub or use exfoliating products in that area. Spending a lot of time in a pool or hot tub may also cause a design to fade more quickly.

 If you ever end up with a henna design that you don’t like, or must fade as quickly as possible for whatever reason, simply do the opposite: go swimming, wash your skin frequently, scrub, and cover yourself in hand sanitizer.

 Henna actually helps the exfoliation of rough, calloused skin. If you have feet that are in need of some love, cover your soles and toes in a solid slipper of henna. You will see the thickest skin acquire a dark, nearly-black stain. Every few days, soak your feet in warm water and scrub with a pumice stone. You’ll see those dark patches slough off, little by little, until your skin is much smoother.

  Bonus: Henna is antifungal. Learn more about henna’s beneficial properties, and how to use henna on the feet here.

 

 

Keep Skin Moisturized

Again, the best way to maintain a long henna stain on the skin is to slow down the natural exfoliation process. Especially if you tend to have dry, flaky skin, it is a good idea to keep the hennaed area moisturized. Some henna artists provide a kind of after-care balm that is meant to prolong the stain. They are usually a homemade mixture of oils, essential oils, and beeswax. If you don’t have this special balm, no worries; a regular lotion or oil made for the skin should do just fine. Not only does a moisturizer keep the skin from drying and shedding, but provides an additional hydrophobic barrier to keep water out. You may want to reapply throughout the day, especially if the design is on your hands and you are washing your hands frequently.

 If you want to treat yourself to some wonderful smelling, all-natural lotions, body butters, and oils, Mehandi has you covered.

 

 

These body butters are hand-made in small batches, and they smell delicious.

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Reapply If Possible

If you got your henna done on a trip, or hired a professional, it may not be possible to have the design reapplied once it starts fading. If you have a steady hand and access to some good henna paste (for best results and safety, mix it yourself), you may try tracing over the pattern yourself.

 If you applied your henna yourself, and are very happy with the design, simply retrace the design once it starts fading to keep it fresh. Henna stains build on each other, causing increasingly darker results. I tend to maintain a henna slipper on my feet during the summer months, and after the second or third application, my soles are nearly black. They stay that way as long as I reapply about once a week.

 

If you have additional questions about henna after-care, feel free to comment below or visit www.hennapage.com for all things henna!

Henna For Body Art 101: How to Make a Basic Henna Paste

 

Creating a great henna paste for body art is relatively simple. It requires only a few ingredients, and the right combination of temperature and time. Many people avoid making their own henna paste because they believe that it is too complicated, choosing instead to purchase pre-made paste from other body art suppliers, or worse, the dreaded “chemical cone.” Making homemade BAQ henna paste is much cheaper than buying it from a henna supplier, and definitely much safer than purchasing manufactured henna paste cones. This article will describe how to make a basic henna paste for body art use, and dip into the science behind it.

 

The Ingredients

Paste recipes will vary depending on the type of henna powder used, the humidity of the environment, and the personal preferences of the artist. Any basic henna paste will likely have the following ingredients, each with their own purpose:

  • Body art quality (BAQ) henna powder

  • An acidic liquid (for effective dye-release)

  • Essential oils (for a dark stain)

  • Some kind of sugar (for a smooth consistency and better adherence to skin)

 

BAQ Henna Powder

Not all henna powder is made equal. Cheaper powders can contain a variety of additives, such as dyes, sand, metallic salts, and chemical adulterants. They can be poorly sifted, and contain stale powder that releases little dye. Henna that is sold for hair is sometimes a premixed blend of henna and other plant powders. You need to look for a henna that is finely-sifted, and tested to be 100% pure henna, free of adulterants. The product may be labeled BAQ, but be aware that companies often use that term as a method of advertising, regardless of the henna’s quality.

 It is unlikely that you will find a quality henna powder in a brick-and-mortar store. Don’t be fooled by packaging. “Made in India” means very little when it comes to the product’s safety, as does “100% safe” or an ingredients list that only reports henna as the ingredient.

 If you are interested in seeing an experiment on pre-made henna pastes that claimed to be safe and pure, read this.

 Your safest bet is to order directly from a reputable company dealing in henna body art products, and/or pure bulk henna powder. Check to see if they have lab-test documents on their powders.

 BAQ henna powders will differ from one another. Henna is grown in a number of regions, and the crops themselves will vary season by season. Some hennas will create a creamier texture, like smooth mashed potatoes, while others will be stringy and stretchy like melted caramel. Each artist has their preference. The consistency can also be manipulated with the amount of liquid and sugar used.

 

Acidic Liquid

 The henna powder provides the dye molecule responsible for leaving beautiful, deep red stains on the skin. The molecule is called Lawsone. When henna powder is mixed with a liquid, the intermediary molecule, called an aglycone, is released. This is often referred to as dye release.

 The aglycones quickly bond with oxygen molecules to form its final state. Once oxidized, the dye is no longer able to attach to the skin. This process is called demise.

 The goal is to keep the aglycones available for a longer period of time, allowing as much dye as possible to stain the surface layers of the skin before oxidizing. An acidic liquid provides a low pH, hydrogen-rich environment, which allows for a longer period of time before demise.

 Therefore, lemon juice is one of the most popular liquids to mix with henna. Henna pastes which are made with an acidic liquid, like lemon juice, need to rest for a longer dye release time before it is ready to use. Pastes mixed with water release very quickly, but also demise much faster.

 

Essential Oils

EOs make henna paste smell great, but they have a more important function than that. Certain types of essential oils contain monoterpene alcohols, which act as solvents. Often referred to as terps, these essential oils help create a much darker stain on the skin. Without terps, a henna design may remain a lighter, orange color rather than oxidizing to a deep brown. The dye molecule in henna is hydrophobic, rather than hydrophilic (it is not friends with water). The terp acts as a solvent to release the dye more effectively within the acidic liquid.

 Not all essential oils contain monoterpene alcohols. Some essential oils which contain monoterpene alcohols are not safe to use on the skin. Tea Tree, Cajeput, and Ravensara essential oils contain a high amount of monoterpene alcohols, and are safe to use. Lavender, Cardamom, Geranium, Cypress, and Cypress Tips oils are good, as well. Neroli, Pine, Juniper, Thyme, Rosemary, and Marjoram essential oils have lower levels of monoterpene alcohols, but will still darken henna somewhat.

 Oils to avoid: Citrus oils are phototoxic. Cinnamon and Clove are irritating to the skin. Camphor is a transdermal intoxicant, and can make a person ill.

 

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 The oils you choose to use will be dependent on your preference and needs. Lavender is popular because it is the best for sensitive skin. Whatever your choice, make sure to use high quality, aromatherapy-grade oils. You will need about 10ml of essential oil for every 100g henna.

 Learn more about terps here.

 

Sugar

This last ingredient is not absolutely necessary, but it is helpful. Many henna artists add some type of sugar into their paste. It gives the paste a smooth, silky consistency that is easier to work with. The sugar also helps the paste stick onto the skin and stay moist longer. For a dark, long-lasting stain, the pattern needs to stay on the skin as long as possible.

 Regular white sugar works fine enough. Dextrose is great, too. Some henna artists report using molasses, honey, or corn syrup. The amount of sugar needed is dependent on the humidity of your current climate. In dry areas, more sugar may be necessary. In warm, humid areas, a paste with too much sugar will remain very wet, and “melt,” meaning the design on the skin turns to blobs.

 Some artists prefer more sugar in their paste, as it allows them to “stretch” the paste and drape long, fine lines. Some prefer their paste to be creamier, akin to the texture of icing. If you are just starting to mix your own henna, it is best to add just a little sugar at a time, testing the paste until you find a consistency that you like. Henna paste can still be effective with no sugar at all.

 Learn more about henna and sugar here.

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This henna has been mixed with dextrose. The paste is smoother and stretchier.

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Temperature and Time

While there is some variation between henna powders, henna normally dye-releases in an acidic mixture within 8-12 hours at room temperature. Some powders may need as long as 24 hours. A warmer environment will speed dye-release, while a cooler environment will slow it. A long dye-release creates a better paste than a fast one. Do not mix henna with hot liquid. This will cause a very fast dye-release, and a very weak stain.

 

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To learn more about dye-release, read this Ancient Sunrise® Blog article. It is about henna for hair, but the science is still the same, no matter where you plan to put your henna.

 

Putting It All Together

I am not going to provide a “recipe” because, as you can see, there are many variables to take into account, as well as personal preference. One recipe may work well for me, with the crop of henna I use, the humidity of my environment, and my personal preference, but may be completely off for you.

 I would prefer to provide a guide for discovering a henna mix that works best for you and your needs. Experiment a little, and take notes. That way, once you have mixed your perfect batch, you will be able to recreate it.

 

However, you will generally need about equal parts henna powder and liquid (when measured by volume), and a much smaller amount of sugar. Essential oils will be the most scant ingredient in your mix, as they are very strong. Again, 10ml (about 2tsp) terps is plenty for 100g (roughly 1 cup) dry henna powder. EOs with high levels of monoterpene alcohols can be used even more sparingly.

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 Begin with a small amount of henna powder, perhaps a few tablespoons. You can always make a bigger batch of paste once you’ve perfected your mix. 20 grams of henna powder will still create enough paste to fill several cones, and there’s no point making mistakes on an entire packet of henna powder.

 Add lemon juice little by little, stirring until the powder is completely wet, and has the consistency of thick mashed potatoes, and any large lumps are gone. A whisk is handy to use.

 Add the essential oils, and stir until fully combined.

 Cover the paste with plastic wrap, pushing the plastic down so it is against the paste. Check the temperature of where you plan to leave it, and check the chart above to know how long to leave it. Set an alarm on your phone, or write a reminder to yourself. Mixing the paste in the evening and leaving it overnight is an effective method.

 Leave it alone. Poking and stirring every few hours won’t do anything to speed it up. Once you believe the paste is ready, check for dye release. There are a few indicators you can use.

 First, the surface of the paste may be several shades darker than the paste underneath. If you mixed in a glass bowl, you can see the layers quite clearly. Or, you can use a spoon to scoop away the top, and compare it to the paste that you reveal underneath.

 Second, there may be a deep orange-red liquid that collects around the surface of your paste.

 Finally, you can test some of the paste on your skin by applying a drop to the palm of your hand, and leaving it there for a few minutes. When you wipe it away, you should see a bright orange stain. If the stain is very light, leave the paste for another hour, and check again.

 

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You can see that the surface is darker, and there are puddles of a deep red liquid collecting on the surface.

 

 

Consistency

Once your paste has dye-released, add liquid and sugar as needed until it is the right consistency. You can use water, or more lemon juice. Add the sugar in a fraction of a teaspoon at a time. Liquid sugars, like molasses, require very little to get the job done. Many artists prefer a paste that “ribbons” off of the spoon. Some may prefer a slightly thicker paste.

 Test the paste by coning a small amount, and squeezing a simple design on your skin. You want the paste to come out of the cone in thin lines without using too much pressure. You may want to see how far you can drape a line before it breaks. Try a few swirls and varying the thickness of your lines. Wait for about fifteen minutes.

 If your design dries and cracks quickly, or doesn’t drape well enough, add a little more sugar. If the paste was too thick, add a little more liquid. If the paste is too thin or wet, add a little more powder. Keep adjusting and testing until you get the paste to your preference.

 

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“Stringy” paste makes fine lines easier to drape.

 

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Storage

If you want to use your henna paste right away, cone it up and get doodling! If you plan to use your henna paste in the next day or two, you can keep it in the refrigerator. If you are not sure when you will be using it, or would like to keep it for a long time, keep it in the freezer. You can either put your henna into cones before storing it, or defrost and cone when you choose. An easy way to keep frozen henna is to wrap it in plastic, like in the article here.

 However you store it, I find it helpful to write a note that includes the date and the ingredients. I use a permanent marker and write it on the plastic bag holding my cones. This way, you can differentiate between batches. For example, I have cones that are citrus-free and contain only lavender oil, for use on those with sensitivities. I wouldn’t want to get my batches confused and accidentally apply my regular mix on someone with a citrus allergy.

 If you need help learning how to roll cones, watch this video here.

 

Learn more about mixing henna at the Henna Page. If you have questions, feel free to comment below.